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  • #16
    I've been giving very serious consideration to an exhaust setup like that too. I say go for it!

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    • #17
      Why not run a 4" flowmaster y - 4" bullet - 4" cutout then connect it to the catback? Do you want the omg it's got duals?
      2000 Formula
      fixed slow junk

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      • #18
        Why 4"? That's way overkill for my needs. I want the "omg it sounds awesome" on a small price. True duals sound good, which is why I want to go that route.
        - Brian Meissen
        Owner, MiFBody.com
        Administrator, LTxTech.com


        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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        • #19
          duals sound good but so does a proper merge and large pipe when it's dumped

          If you could run them over the axle and into a CME that'd be smokin'
          2000 Formula
          fixed slow junk

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Nocooler View Post
            duals sound good but so does a proper merge and large pipe when it's dumped
            Agreed. Jeffs car sounds nasty with the flowmaster merge and single 4" cutout.


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            • #21
              dynomax sells all those parts. That might save you a few $$ over the magnaflow stuff.
              -08 G8 GT DD: Rotofab CAI, HID's, Breyton Race GTS'
              -86 Iroc Project: LQ4, Th400, S400, Ford 9"

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              • #22
                Alright - I think I'm going to revisit this project. Even after doing the Hooker catback exhaust with electric cutout, I'm fed up with the weird noise that I'm getting at certain RPMs and I think it's because of the y-pipe. I want true duals, but I don't want to lose the "quiet" exhaust I can have in the subdivision. Since I have a full catback exhaust to work with, I *think* this should be doable for relatively cheap... but I could be completely wrong - the welding and labor is the variable that could kick my ass, in which case I'd probably resort to just doing slip joints to piece some of this together since I have a bunch of them already.

                889223_10100427758974766_824547009_o.jpg

                Here's another picture taken last year before I changed out the torque arm:






                Now my question is - do you guys think I should even bother trying to Frankenstein the y-pipe to work with the X-pipe crossover, or should I just get a universal x-pipe crossover kit on Summit and go with that? I'd like to have everything roughly mocked up and then be able to take it to a shop and have them just weld it together, or worse case have the pipe x-pipe crossover welded together and the custom cutout/y-pipe transition welded together and I do the rest.
                Last edited by meissen; July 16th, 2013, 09:39 AM.
                - Brian Meissen
                Owner, MiFBody.com
                Administrator, LTxTech.com


                1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                • #23
                  Thats going to be hard to package with the chassis mounted TQ arm.... Good luck.


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                  • #24
                    Having done duals a few times with that same crossmember/torque arm, unless you're dead set on getting duals, I'd try putting a flowmaster Y-merge to replace the current merge in your Y-pipe. A lot of people say that will solve the funky sounds at certain rpm that seems to come along with that Y-pipe.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
                      Thats going to be hard to package with the chassis mounted TQ arm.... Good luck.
                      Originally posted by birdie2000 View Post
                      Having done duals a few times with that same crossmember/torque arm, unless you're dead set on getting duals, I'd try putting a flowmaster Y-merge to replace the current merge in your Y-pipe. A lot of people say that will solve the funky sounds at certain rpm that seems to come along with that Y-pipe.
                      Would it be that hard to go with duals with the torque arm brace? Right now I have 3" exhaust but I would downsize to 2.5" for this setup. But, Jim, maybe you're thinking is right... the main problem I have is with the tinny "whack whack" noise at certain RPMs where it gets really funky - almost embarrassing. If cutting the y-pipe and adding a y-merge would solve it, maybe that's all I should look at doing first.
                      - Brian Meissen
                      Owner, MiFBody.com
                      Administrator, LTxTech.com


                      1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                      2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                      Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                      June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                      The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Well, I admit, I forgot about your original idea to have a duals/catback hybrid. That might actually work. The only "easy" way to do duals with that torque arm setup is to have both mufflers on the passenger side, which for the setup you're going for is how you'd have to do it anyway so that takes away the biggest obstacle. You could keep it dual 3" if you wanted, put the middle of the X smack dab over the crossmember and you should be fine. Stuffing that Y-merge up there by the axle is going to take someone with patience though, IMO, so make sure you find a good exhaust shop to do it.

                        If you'd be satisfied with just fixing that noise and keeping your same exhaust setup, I'd personally try adding the Flowmaster or Magnaflow Y-merge first, because worst case scenario they could re-use it again later if you Y it together again at the axle like in those pics above. It would certainly be cheaper if it works.

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                        • #27
                          That's a good point - I could at least try the y-merge and if that doesn't work go with the duals and could reuse that merge.... hmmmmmmm, may have to try that route first (and appease the wife)
                          - Brian Meissen
                          Owner, MiFBody.com
                          Administrator, LTxTech.com


                          1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                          2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                          Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                          June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                          The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            the exhaust is not a place I would go ultra cheap IMO, especially if you need to service the underside of the car which seems imminent at some point. Those band clamps and slip joints honestly suck when compared to some nice 3 bolt flages or v-bands. That said I really think that route with a flowmaster merge would be ideal for the most budget minded route and will be the best bet at having a leak free exhaust. If your set on duals with that torque arm setup it will not be cheap to do it correctly IMO. If you're not willing to break out the checkbook then don't do the duals, not to mention duals are pretty loud and without 2 sets of mufflers I think they would be too much for you based off the way you want it quiet in the sub.

                            As for the flowmaster merge I had one with that same type torque arm setup and I absolutely loved the way it sounded with the cutout open, even closed there was no rasp at all but the stock catback didn't sound too great other than being quiet. Here is a quick pic of the dual 3" to 4" outlet merge I used and how tight it was placed through the torque arm mount.



                            Doing less with more


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                            • #29
                              Brian, do you have a resinator or such in the I-pipe or is that just a peice of straight pipe? I would try putting a Powerstick, borla xr-1 etc.. in the I-pipe, as i'm guessing that "Whack whack" is refuring to rasp at around 2-2.5k?
                              Last edited by Dummybait; July 16th, 2013, 10:25 AM.

                              2001 Bright Rally Red Camaro SS
                              - M6, Livernois Stage 3 ported 243 heads, Livernois 230/236 114 LSA cam, FRPP 36# injectors, Ported TB, SLP MAF, Volant CAI, Kooks 1 3/4 headers & ORY, GMMG Cat-back. Koni SA 4/3's, BMR springs, Founders Performance, STB, LCA's and Panhard bar.

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                              • #30
                                Before you put the new pipes on, try dimpling the exhaust in the sections your looking at replacing, it should help you rule out where and what is the cause, then you will know exactly what all should be swapped
                                sigpic

                                Go BIG or go HOME!

                                2000 Camaro SS Triple Black, 6 speed, Born 6/16/2000. SLP #8468. Plenty of Goodies

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