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Camming an otherwise stock LT1 with full bolt-ons

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  • Camming an otherwise stock LT1 with full bolt-ons

    So, my b-day's rolling around again and I was considering getting a cam for my stock LT1. I'm generally familiar with cam concepts, however, I do not know how direct-fit a non-factory cam may be. It would be nice to be able to select a cam that will give me a better than factory sound and a few extra ponies without necessitating overhauling the entire valvetrain.

    From what I've found, the factory LT1 cam specs are .447 int/.459 exh lift, 203 int/210 exh duration, and 117 LSA. With this in mind, would the GMP LT4 Hotcam (specs: .492 int/.492 exhaust lift, 218 int/228 exh duration, and 112 LSA) be compatible with the factory valvetrain? For that matter, how do I know what increase in lift/duration the valvetrain can handle?

    I understand that it is obviously ideal to upgrade the valvetrain when camming an engine, however, as I am currently looking mostly for improved sound and minimal power gains I have considered this route.

    All assistance, information, and recommendations are greatly appreciated!
    Mark

  • #2
    You will always need new springs with a cam, you should follow the recommendations from the cam manufacturer. Not sure with LT1's if the pushrods have to be replaced or the retainers and locks. If you have more than 50k miles, a new timing chain and gears would be a good idea while you have it apart. Of course you'll need a tune then too.
    When in doubt, Whip it out !

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    • #3
      You will need all the supporting hardware for even a LT4.

      Many on the site are going to say " If you buying the supporting hardware, just get a real cam"
      1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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      • #4
        Originally posted by nascarnate326 View Post
        Many on the site are going to say " If you buying the supporting hardware, just get a real cam"
        I realize I left this piece of info out but, the reason I won't be getting a "real" cam is that it wouldn't make any real sense for a completely stock motor. Without the rest of the components to match, the minimal benefits wouldn't justify the potential of the cam. I've got another LT1 block stripped down and ready to be machined for a stroker build down the road, but for now, I don't want to get wrapped up in expenses on a motor that's going to get pulled eventually anyway. I just remember how my dad talked about how he cammed his LeMans, with seemingly little intent for significant gain, and hoped I may have been able to do the same and hear a little more lobe.

        It wouldn't kill me to pass on this for the time being either, which I'm beginning to think I may do. Doing anything seems to be playing russian roulette regarding opening a serious can of worms, and since my car runs well as it is, I think I'd rather not tempt fate. When it comes time to build that stroker, then I'll go all in.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jamesbondwink View Post
          I realize I left this piece of info out but, the reason I won't be getting a "real" cam is that it wouldn't make any real sense for a completely stock motor. Without the rest of the components to match, the minimal benefits wouldn't justify the potential of the cam. I've got another LT1 block stripped down and ready to be machined for a stroker build down the road, but for now, I don't want to get wrapped up in expenses on a motor that's going to get pulled eventually anyway. I just remember how my dad talked about how he cammed his LeMans, with seemingly little intent for significant gain, and hoped I may have been able to do the same and hear a little more lobe.

          It wouldn't kill me to pass on this for the time being either, which I'm beginning to think I may do. Doing anything seems to be playing russian roulette regarding opening a serious can of worms, and since my car runs well as it is, I think I'd rather not tempt fate. When it comes time to build that stroker, then I'll go all in.
          based on what youre saying here, dont even lift a valve cover. Put your money into the new engine so you know everythings fresh.
          -Joel
          1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
          1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


          WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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          • #6
            based on your sig it looks like you have bolt-ons that would complement a cam swap nicely, but as you have heard a cam requires upgrading the valvetrain at minimum and don't forget a tune is necessary I don't care what anyone else says.
            Doing less with more


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            • #7
              I didn't notice any mention of a converter. I'd buy a nice converter before I'd buy the cam.
              When in doubt, Whip it out !

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              • #8
                Well, I've decided that I'm going to take the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" route for now. Thanks for the input guys, and I look forward to sharing my build project with you all sometime down the road.

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                • #9
                  i just did a cam swap and it seems cheap at first glance but in the end you end up spending way over what you first thought. I spent roughly $1200-1600 (including labor) and i already had springs , 1.6rr's, etc + full bolt ons. But i had to get bigger injectors, misc gaskets, lt4 KM, chromoly pushrods, degreaser, engine paint, new oil, new coolant, and any extra stuuf that broke or needed replacment, oh and i forgot a re-tune.
                  - 2012 Mustang GT 5.0 - M6 / Brembo Package / 3.73 / Bama Tune / Catless X / Corsa Xtreme /
                  - 2006 TBSS 2wd - Nitrous Grind Cam / Stainless Works LT's / Nitrous Works / FMStune / IeatSRT CAI / Stg 6 Trans / Kbee Coilovers / SOLD
                  - 1997 Camaro - Crane 234 242 / PortedPolishedMilled / Kooks / Borla / CompClutch / pro5.0 / 4.10's / SLP / SOLD
                  - 2008 G8 GT - Kooks / Vararam / HSRK / FMStune / SOLD
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