Looking to do a few addons (opinions needed)

[chris2001_15]

Been MIA from the site for a while with school / work in the way, with some time freeing up and a bit of money saved up I'm looking at putting a cam / slp air box / and intake manifold on my 96 camaro with a 2000 LS1 with the 4L60E trans (has LT headers, no egr, cat was removed and has a edelbrock exhaust) I'm looking to spend around $1,500 ish give or take. Use the vehicle mostly street and have never been to the strip, but it is not a daily driver. Just looking for some advice to point me in the right direction for setups that work well together.

[1999Black_Z28]

Have Patrick G from LS1tech custom spec you a cam. Give him your setup and goals and for $25 he will send you a spec sheet and ordering instructions. In the end it only cost a few more dollars than an off the shelf cam and you will be much happier with the results. You will want to upgrade springs and pushrods (Patrick will also give his reccommendations with your spec sheet) and possibly ti retainers to save weight. You should still have enough money left over to buy an LS6 intake. If you have more to spend I would reccommend the FAST 102 but you will need close to $1500 to run one of those.

[1BADAIR]

small cam, 3600stall

[farmington]

Gears and a converter first. If you have 3.23's you can get by, but if you have the 2.74's, change them. I went with a 2800 converter and 3.73 gears and really woke my stock 99 z28 up.

[Detoxx03]

If you do a cam would you be installing it yourself? Who's doing the tuning? Honestly $1500 isn't a lot to spend especially if someone else is doing the work. I would not do a cam without a stall so with that said I would get a intake, air box, tune, and some suspension work or tires until it comes time to do a cam package with a stall.

[chris2001_15]

I guess i should of been a little more detailed. I will be having my uncle install the parts, he is the one that helped me with the whole motor swap in the first place. Tune, I'm not sure where but i will have to send that out to be done. the rear end is 3.23, and thinking like a kid again I like the sound of a cam, lol. My goal really is to be above 385 @ the rear wheels. (my dad has a factory supercharged cobra mustang putting down those numbers) But in all reality it's just what I can afford to do.

[c0ncEpT]

small cam, 3600stall

^ what he said.

Something in the high 220's/ low 230's will make very good power and retain lots of low end TQ and driveability.

3600 is the starting point for a converter on an LS1 IMO.

[chris2001_15]

Thanks for the info, Looks like I can avoid the intake manifold and get the stall converter instead. At first glance they seem to be around half the price, so I can start looking up cam / converter and an air lid and other parts I'll need with the cam and still be below what I set for the price limit.

[chris2001_15]

Only other question is how does the stall converter effect street driveability? Most everything I have owned has been a manual so Ive not dealt with this before. A few people are telling me that basically the car wont move until the rpm get to 3600 in the case of getting a 3600 stall converter and telling me that's fine if i want a "drag car". Pardon my ignorance on this topic

[1999Black_Z28]

I have PAC 1518 springs and Ti retainers for sale if you're interested

http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...p-Ti-Retainers

I'm open to offers...

[Detoxx03]

Only other question is how does the stall converter effect street driveability? Most everything I have owned has been a manual so Ive not dealt with this before. A few people are telling me that basically the car wont move until the rpm get to 3600 in the case of getting a 3600 stall converter and telling me that's fine if i want a "drag car". Pardon my ignorance on this topic

Not true. I have a Yank SS3600 and I don't have to get it to 3600 for it to move

[1BADAIR]

to reach the"stall speed" you would have to use all the brakes the car has plus more. they will usually spin the tires before you reach true stall speed

the stall convertor would just feel a little mushy under light throttle take offs. the rpm would come up slightly more than with a stock vert when driving normal

[1BADAIR]

he brake torqued it alittle from the stop.


another

[chris2001_15]

Finally got a response from comp cams, one of the employees sent me this e-mail back. Tell me what you all think

"Chris I can do a cam that does not require a converter but I would really suggest getting one. I know its more money but you will be much happier with it in the long run. I would use our part number 54-000-11 with a grind number 3721/3723HR113+4. This is a custom grind camshaft and will take 3-5 business days to complete. I have provided the specs on the cam below. You will also need our 26918-16 springs and our 7955-16 pushrods. This cam will let you get away with the higher ratio gears and still not kill the bottom end. It will make good top end power and offer significant increases over the stock camshaft. It will also give you a little lope sound as well. Price for the cam, springs, and pushrods is $742.90 and shipping is free to the lower 48 states.



Duration @ .050 222/226

Lift w/1.7 rockers .581/.585

LSA 113 degrees"

[sman]

You will be MUCH happier with a converter than you would with a cam. Dont do the cam before the converter, just wasting money, ive seen several cars run slower afterwords.