Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need vac line part!!!

Collapse
X
Collapse
Who has read this thread:
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Need vac line part!!!

    Ok I have a "T" connector on my vac lines. Problem is 1 of the lines broke off inside the connecter and I can't get it out. So I need a new connector, problem is that no auto part stores around me carry 1 like what I have. The only cary the connector that the plastic house goes over the connector, not in and it's white on top of things. If anyone can help me find this part I'd appreciate it. I keep getting SES lights every once in awhile and I had AZ pull the codes and it's a vac line problem. I replaced a couple broken lines and still getting the code so that's the only 1 I can think of. I also checked a couple junk yards and couldn't even find any 3rd gens really, and if they did have any, there motors where ripped out.

    http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6...or/vacline.jpg

    Tags: body, break, close, connectors, covered, engine, fit, fwd, hey, hoods, hose, lines, lol, nylon, pre, pretty, res, rest, rwd, star, start, thing, work, years, z34
  • #2
    Originally posted by SouLTeRRoR
    Ok I have a "T" connector on my vac lines. Problem is 1 of the lines broke off inside the connecter and I can't get it out. So I need a new connector, problem is that no auto part stores around me carry 1 like what I have. The only cary the connector that the plastic house goes over the connector, not in and it's white on top of things. If anyone can help me find this part I'd appreciate it. I keep getting SES lights every once in awhile and I had AZ pull the codes and it's a vac line problem. I replaced a couple broken lines and still getting the code so that's the only 1 I can think of. I also checked a couple junk yards and couldn't even find any 3rd gens really, and if they did have any, there motors where ripped out.

    http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6...or/vacline.jpg
    Thats part of the EGR control. Try having them look up parts for the EGR solenoid.

    Comment

    • #3
      That's not the part, it's the "T" connector. Here's a larger pic.

      http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums..._198_94464.jpg

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by SouLTeRRoR
        That's not the part, it's the "T" connector. Here's a larger pic.

        http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums..._198_94464.jpg
        Yep I know what it is, the other end goes to a vacuum source (under the throttle body in my case). It just provides vacuum to the EGR solenoid. That's why you should have them look up EGR system parts and see if its in there.

        Comment

        • #5
          Nothing for that, but I did fix it. Just got out my drill and drilled the broken peice. So I got it all hooked up now, but I did crack the connector but I think it's after the house makes it's connection, so I think it'll be alright. Thanx for the suggestions. Hopefully this was the problem.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by SouLTeRRoR
            Nothing for that, but I did fix it. Just got out my drill and drilled the broken peice. So I got it all hooked up now, but I did crack the connector but I think it's after the house makes it's connection, so I think it'll be alright. Thanx for the suggestions. Hopefully this was the problem.
            If you had a vac leak at the EGR solenoid you would be tripping EGR codes.

            Is that what you were getting? I think its code 32.

            Comment

            • #7
              I forget the code number, but it was something with the vacum. I might reset the comp tomorrow and hope I get no more codes. anyway to do that without disconnecting the battery? Don't really feel like setting my head unit up again. If it is the EGR solenoid, how would I go about testing that?

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by SouLTeRRoR
                I forget the code number, but it was something with the vacum. I might reset the comp tomorrow and hope I get no more codes. anyway to do that without disconnecting the battery? Don't really feel like setting my head unit up again. If it is the EGR solenoid, how would I go about testing that?
                The only alternative would be a handheld code reader / clearer or a laptop with an ALDL cable.

                Comment

                • #9
                  with the 2.8 you dont need an f body any rwd 2.8 will pretty much work from the same years... start looking under the hoods of s-10's and minivans... also might be the same connectors on a fwd engine... it looks close but not sure if its the same... the connector really is all you will need the rest you can fit with vacume hose or nylon lines...i had the same thing break on an old cavy z34 or whatever they are... i just cheeped out tossed a thin line in it and covered it with silicon..lol
                  Originally posted by Frank The Tank
                  Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

                  Comment

                  Previous template Next
                  Working...
                  X