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  • tunnel ram

    as most of you know, im awaiting the arrival of my 383 stroker..

    was wondering if any of you ave pictures of a tunner ram dual carb system sticking out of the hood of a 4th gen t/a...

    need to see how it looks before i can take on such a project.

    new windsheild and alot of modification going into putting the 383 in.. mind as well make it worth it..

    thanks guys.
    -Im Ron Burgundy?
    ----------------------------
    -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

  • #2
    I would get a cowl hood rather than having somthing sticking out of the hood. Just my 2 cents.
    sigpic
    And another thing.....when I gun the motor, I want the whole world to think it's coming to an end.
    -Homer Simpson

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    • #3
      Yep I agree go with a cowl.
      Doing less with more


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      • #4
        Same here. It would be cool to have something like that as a track queen but not as DD. To many people may mess with it!

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        • #5
          oh beilive you me, this will be no daily driver.. car shows, track, and a little bit of woodward fun..

          looking for a look that not many people would think of let alone do..
          -Im Ron Burgundy?
          ----------------------------
          -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

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          • #6
            instead of all the mod work needed to fit a standard sbc into the place of the old block... new windshield,cut up firewall,ect... ever think of moving the motor and trans mounts forward? and getting a longer drive shaft? it would cost the same if not less than all the custom pieces and when you pull the engine forward and down a bit you get better handling.. ive seen it done before pretty easy... you can just fab up some brackets and move all the mounts forward like 3-5 inches and it drops right in no problem
            Originally posted by Frank The Tank
            Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

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            • #7
              actually i was thinking of doing just that, allthough how would it affect me being able to pull the radiator with the motor in, or would i be able to pull it from the bottom?
              -Im Ron Burgundy?
              ----------------------------
              -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

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              • #8
                Ummm can't you stroke a LT1 block to an 383? I have heard of many people buying Lt1 383 shortblocks why don't you just do that?
                Doing less with more


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                • #9
                  because to be completly honest with you, i hate computer controlled cars..

                  look how much you have to do for a cam change.. on top of srings lifters rocker arms and pushrods ect, you still need to drop 500-600 on a computer reprogram/dyno..

                  i have ooked at 383- lt1 strokers, and allthough they range in the same price range.. if i want to chane things later on.. i don't have to break the bank.
                  -Im Ron Burgundy?
                  ----------------------------
                  -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I supposed that is justified, but good luck with it all I'm sure it'll be a freakin beast when complete. Make sure one of the V6 guys on this site buys the LT1 though we need more V8s.
                    Doing less with more


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                    • #11
                      ya a 383 assembly for an lt1&ls1 block is close to a grand more for the same setup in a standard block... and really if you dont get aftermarket intake and everything else on the lt1&ls1 youve dumped close to 2 grand more to be able to reach the same power.. although its much more reliable and probably still get better gas millage... and if your going to add boost you would end up needed some type of FI for it to be reliable...

                      and for the radiator question you can still pull the motor from what i saw but you dont have a tone of room i mean your going to be pulling it straight up to get the block out... but i bet you could push that rad back a bit further... your still going to need a custom drive shaft but thats usually not to much... not as much as custom glass anyways
                      Originally posted by Frank The Tank
                      Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        oh, i would go with a lexan windsheild.. cheaper, and better to work with and customize.

                        however, i would like to move the block as close to the rad. as possible. however, my question is. is it possible to take the radiator out without removing the engine. or possibly from the bottom. getting the engine in and out is the least of me worries.. as that is an intense project. my worries are wether or not moveing the entire drive line foward, would in fact make a small project as getting the radiator out a intense project.

                        Thanks
                        -Im Ron Burgundy?
                        ----------------------------
                        -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sounds like it's going to be a sweet car. I'm planning on puttin a 383 in mine next winter.

                          1978 Pontiac Firebird Formula W66
                          350 Small Block Chevy Bored .030 Over (355)

                          GM Performance Parts Vortec Heads
                          Holley 650cfm Double Pumper
                          Edelbrock Performer-Plus Cam
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                          2-1/2" Exhaust With "H" Pipe & Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers
                          TH350 With B&M Transpak Shift Kit & 2400rpm Stall B&M Tork Master Converter

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