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  • Cam Swap HELP

    Alright so i've decided that i'm going to do a camp swap using my stock heads. Question is, what supporting mods are absoultely necessary for the cam swap?

    98 Z28 46,000 Miles m6

    Stuck betwen two packages:

    TSP XS Series Camshaft: 224/224, .581"/.581" 112 LSA
    -
    Comp Cams 918 Spring Kit
    -
    Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

    "TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
    - Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs
    - Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)

    Do i need dual springs & titanium retainers instead? LS6 Oil pump? What do I NEED to install and run the cam safely?
    Last edited by TenaciousB; May 14th, 2008, 09:03 AM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by TenaciousB View Post
    Alright so i've decided that i'm going to do a camp swap using my stock heads. Question is, what supporting mods are absoultely necessary for the cam swap?

    98 Z28 46,000 Miles

    Stuck betwen two packages:

    TSP XS Series Camshaft: 224/224, .581"/.581" 112 LSA
    -
    Comp Cams 918 Spring Kit
    -
    Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

    "TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
    - Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs
    - Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)

    Do i need dual springs & titanium retainers instead? LS6 Oil pump? What do I NEED to install and run the cam safely?
    Is the car an Auto or a stick? If its an auto you need a converter and if its a stick the stock clutch prob wont last to long. You NEED valve springs, now you don't need Dual springs with those cams but they are a good thing to have incase one fails. you will also need pushrods. You don't have to have these but its good insurance to put a timing chain and oil pump in while you are there also. And why such a baby cam if I might ask? My car is a DD and I think I'm going to use something in the 240/244 .605/.596 112 LSA range


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    • #3
      dang mike you got guts thats pretty big.
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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      • #4
        I'd like to have a list of what is needed as well.
        I'm planning on doing a cam swap ASAP.

        Why would an automatic need a converter?
        Then just go better together? or its required?
        sigpic
        2004 Cummins 3500 4x4 QCSB Auto, 5" Exh, CAI, 20" GunMetal7s, 35" Goodyears, Fender Flares

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
          dang mike you got guts thats pretty big.
          nah its fine, i DD my car like that to


          Make sure the car can breathe, so some longtubes will help, and an intake

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TenaciousB View Post
            Alright so i've decided that i'm going to do a camp swap using my stock heads. Question is, what supporting mods are absoultely necessary for the cam swap?

            98 Z28 46,000 Miles m6

            Stuck betwen two packages:

            TSP XS Series Camshaft: 224/224, .581"/.581" 112 LSA
            -
            Comp Cams 918 Spring Kit
            -
            Texas Speed Hardened Chromoly Pushrods

            "TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA
            - Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs
            - Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)

            Do i need dual springs & titanium retainers instead? LS6 Oil pump? What do I NEED to install and run the cam safely?
            I just did my whole car swap and one thing it involved was swapping the cam. Dual valve springs aren't needed for that cam but it is nice insurance, but not needed. I wouldn't think Titanium retainers would be necessary either because you not going to be revving it to the moon all the time so you don't really need a littler valve train.

            I didn't replace my oil pump with the LS6, unless the person before me changed it or they cam stock in the 01+ LS1's, and my oil pressure at idle is 60 psi with my big cam.

            As far as which cam, I would go on to LS1Tech.com and look in the dyno results section and see which one puts out the best numbers. Listen to some videos see how much different they sound, I doubt it would be a big difference but these are just some options to help you choose.

            Originally posted by b.lee View Post
            I'd like to have a list of what is needed as well.
            I'm planning on doing a cam swap ASAP.

            Why would an automatic need a converter?
            Then just go better together? or its required?
            An automatic doesn't need a converter it will run just fine without it but then your leaving horse power on the table and why put a cam in if your not going to get out its full potential.

            Other supporting mods like mentioned before would be some nice long tube headers, a lid & smooth bellows, if you can spring some more cash an LS6 intake and a ported throttle body would be great, and lastly a nice y-pipe and free flowing cat-back. None of these mods are going to make it more safe it is just going to help you get every bit out of that cam.

            I would try to get the supporting mods first and even get the stall before the cam, a stall in general really wakes up an automatic.
            2013 Cadillac ATS

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            • #7
              he pretty much covered it, id get the ls2 timing chain and the gm high volume oil pump its only 100, the chain is maybe 50 at most

              thats what we did on my buddy's t/a. i went with a double roller since i got it pretty cheap.

              pushrods/springs and prolly valve seals since you'll already be in there. a ls6 intake+nice flowin exhaust like mentioned

              im lowered and have true duals, my grandma lives where theres huge speed bumps and i dont scrape, i got about a pop can of clearence to thr ground.

              if you got a good tuner bigger cams can be streetable

              bill i could help you since im not far away, its pretty easy
              sigpic
              The LS1 or Go Home Crew

              ASE master certified
              1998 Camarbo z28-going back to stock
              11.3@121 old heads & cam setup




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              • #8
                I don't have an auto and already have full exhaust with long tubes. Ill be picking up an ls6 intake after i get some money.

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                • #9
                  Beehive springs FTW!!!
                  Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                  "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TenaciousB View Post
                    I don't have an auto and already have full exhaust with long tubes. Ill be picking up an ls6 intake after i get some money.
                    Then ignore everything I said about the stall, haha! I would agree with the upgraded pushrods, timing chain, and replacing the valve seals while your in there is good thing to do. And since you seem to have the exhaust side taken care just work on the intake side of things. A good tuner will help too, my car idles like a champ! The 224 cams are great DD's and I've seen them make great power. Just make sure you do what you want with it and do it right. My car took me a little longer to put together than I thought it would but it was because I took my time and did a lot research before tackling anything, so when it cam time to start it up it didn't explode.
                    2013 Cadillac ATS

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
                      Is the car an Auto or a stick? If its an auto you need a converter and if its a stick the stock clutch prob wont last to long. You NEED valve springs, now you don't need Dual springs with those cams but they are a good thing to have incase one fails. you will also need pushrods. You don't have to have these but its good insurance to put a timing chain and oil pump in while you are there also. And why such a baby cam if I might ask? My car is a DD and I think I'm going to use something in the 240/244 .605/.596 112 LSA range
                      224 is a proven cam that makes great power all around. Is your car going to be a track car? Cause I believe that the 240/244 would be a dog down low

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                      • #12
                        918 springs. pushrods. the pump and chain should be fine at 46K

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                        • #13
                          a bigger cam, or else you'll be swapping again in a few weeks lol ask me how I know. Baby cams suck knowing that the car could be much faster for the same price.
                          Doing less with more


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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
                            a bigger cam, or else you'll be swapping again in a few weeks lol ask me how I know. Baby cams suck knowing that the car could be much faster for the same price.
                            Agreed, I told myself at first that I was going to get a nice little cam, but then I said screw it it is going to cost me the same amount to get me a cam with more power. So I had a custom one spec'd that would give me great power all the way through the RPM's and that matched my p/p heads.
                            2013 Cadillac ATS

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by LSxDreamer View Post
                              An automatic doesn't need a converter it will run just fine without it
                              I don't know what kind of cams you have been putting in automatics but anything 224 or bigger will pretty much NEED a converter. You are going to have to raise the idle to get the car to stay running and not only will it than try to push threw the brakes but it will also surge like crazy at low RPMs. IMO anything bigger than a hot cam will NEED a converter or some type.


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