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Optispark Experts: Help!

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  • Optispark Experts: Help!

    I'm going to try this again. I'm having ONE extremely minor issue with my car at the moment, and I'm asking you guys to help me diagnose and solve the problem. I'm at my wit's end, as it doesn't seem to be an equipment failure, it seems to be one of those electrical gremlins that I have been playing hell trying to find.

    The symptoms are:

    -Intermittent DTC 16 (Optispark Low Resolution Pulse Failure); Triggered when High Resolution Pulse is detected, but Low Resolution Pulse is not.
    -Hard Start-Cranks for 4-10 seconds, will ALMOST start, then try cranking again, will crank 2-3 seconds, then fire right up.

    The DTC 16 alone is enough to turn the LT1 into a paperweight, and 9/10 times, it's the omen of a dead optispark, as a constant DTC 16 will kill fuel and spark, and the engine will not run. This is NOT a bad optispark, symptom has persisted through 2 Optisparks, including replacement Opti harnesses both times.

    The odd part of my symptoms is that the DTC 16 is triggered every time the key is turned on, but before the engine is started/cranked. Even if I clear the code with key on/engine off, it persists. This leads me to believe PCM failure or a wiring issue, but I'm not even sure where to start. I've cleaned the engine grounds at the pass. wheel well and ICM stud, no change.

    A friend helped me when I replaced the opti, plugs, wires, compression test, etc., and he found a bad looking ground at the ICM stud (the ignition wiring harness grounds, two yellow wires and one black wire), which was crimp-connected to a ring terminal, which was then attached to the ICM stud. He removed the crimp connector, soldered a small piece of 16-18ga wire to the 3 wires to lengthen them, soldered a ring terminal to that wire, heat-shrink and electrical taped it all up, and attached it to the ICM stud. It looks much cleaner, but I'm concerned that he may have used too small a wire gauge to ground the ignition harness properly, leading to false detection of a pulse signal. Is that possible?

    I haven't checked fuses, inspected the harness at the back of the engine yet, nor pulled the PCM to check. I don't yet have a spare PCM, so I unfortunately cannot swap it to verify a PCM issue. I've been told a low voltage condition could cause these issues, so I'm leaving the battery on the charger tonight, and I'll check for the code at key on/engine off again in the morning.


    Any input is appreciated, as I'm sure there are other possible causes that I may not have considered.
    Nick H.
    Current MIFC Vice President

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  • #2
    We can rule the pcm out later if you can make it out, that would leave a wiring issue. Would swapping a new engine harness on be in the cards, that way you could inspect it before hand? If the PCM gets ruled out at least.
    sigpic
    Just your normal loud and slow LT1

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    • #3
      Originally posted by chrizar View Post
      We can rule the pcm out later if you can make it out, that would leave a wiring issue. Would swapping a new engine harness on be in the cards, that way you could inspect it before hand? If the PCM gets ruled out at least.
      Possibly, but at this point, I'm thinking it's something really simple. . .

      Tried something new today, with key on, I unplugged the ignition test connector from the Opti harness, and as soon as I did, I heard a noise from the driver's side frame rail, almost sounded like the ABS cycling on, then off. Also, when I unhooked the Opti harness, the fuel pump kicked on as well. Cleared the DTC 16 with the opti unhooked, checked for code, no codes shown. Plugged the opti harness back in, code thrown immediately. Is it possible that the optical sensor in the opti is pinned differently than stock? Maybe the pins are backwards or something in the opti harness?

      Steve, if we do meet up tomorrow, I'd like to try unhooking the Opti harness on yours with the key on, just to see if your car does the same thing.
      Nick H.
      Current MIFC Vice President

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      • #4
        I had something similar to this happen to me once. It turned out to be the opti sensor didn't have the proper gap and was creating a weak spark. I chased that problem for months. I thought with a new opti that wasn't the issue, but turned out it was. I keep a spare opti I know works if you would like to try it out. It's the 93-94 style.
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        355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.

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