Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
I'm pondering picking up a used Delteq system to swap on my car, just for simplifying the system, sort of.
Main problem I have, is I can't seem to track down install instructions for it, even though it's plug and play. And for around 200 or so shipped it's not a bad deal.
How high is your car reving? To me that system serves a very limited function. Its for people that "rev high enough to kill an opti but not high enough to exceed 7k rpm." In reality thats a pretty small window, probably around 500 rpm. If youre making enough power/rpm to kill optis (im not at 370rwhp) you probably want to go with a 24x kit for all the other benefits that system offers as well. (coil per cylinder, better tunability, etc)
Was planning on about 6700 next spring with the H/C swap, was just thinking a temp solution to my misfire stumble issues till I could swing the cost of a 24x system.
pretty sure it's not the opti honestly, plugs and wires have maybe 3k on them now. I went cheap duralast ones though and NGK TR55's. I don't see any arcing, and no burnt wires on the drives side at least, I need to pull the pass side ones and check still. it did run better after pulling the drivers side wires off and putting them back on, plugs all looked great too.
I'm hoping Nick can help later today and swap out coil/icm to see if that helps at all.
Tweet
Comment