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NO SPARK. 3.8L

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  • NO SPARK. 3.8L

    Hey guys. I am having some issues with my car. I was driving down the road after just getting my car back from paint, and it just died on me.

    After looking under the hood, the only thing that was out of place was that the negative battery terminal wire/ground? was not connected to the engine.

    After bringing it back to the garage, I found that I don't have any spark at ANY cylinder. I looked through my manual and going through step by step said to check the connection on the crank position sensor. If there is power between 6-9V then check the wires leading to the sensor, and then check the sensor itself. If no problems are found, then replace the sensor. I went through these steps and ended up replacing the crank position sensor.

    Again when I went to go start it, it still would not start. So I again check the voltage at the sensor and I am not getting anything, which leads me to believe its a crimped wire or short somewhere between the sensor and the ignition module. I know the ignition module is good, because I was able to get voltage at that sensor just yesterday. And today after putting everything back together, I am not getting anything now.

    I plan on taking out my entire wire harness tomorrow and follow the wires from the ecu side all the way down to the crank position sensor and to the ignition module. I will check the cam position sensor as well, but that wouldn't cause a no spark issue.

    If anyone has any thoughts or ideas they are very well appreciated. If I can't find anything in the wires tomorrow, I am going to have to take it to the dealership or some shop and have them fix it. I don't want to keep throwing money at what I THINK is the issue only for it to not work.
    Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere.

    For six days work may be done, but on the seventh day, you shall have a track day, a Sabbath of competing, to time the FIREBIRD; whoever does any work on it shall be put in last place.

  • #2
    I know it sounds silly, but have you checked fuses? I'm not sure if those are through the fusible links or the fuse box but it's worth a shot.
    - Brian Meissen
    Owner, MiFBody.com
    Administrator, LTxTech.com


    1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
    2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
    Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
    June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
    The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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    • #3
      OK,here is a silly question...Did you reconnect the negative cable back to the block?

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      • #4
        Yes, I do have the negative connected back to the block, and no there are no blown fuses/relays.

        I think it may be an issue with the connector body to the crank sensor b/c I had a bit of a leak from my power steering pump, and the fluid was able to trickle down directly into the connector body for the crank sensor. Whether or not that actually caused it I don't know. I am almost out of ideas on this
        Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere.

        For six days work may be done, but on the seventh day, you shall have a track day, a Sabbath of competing, to time the FIREBIRD; whoever does any work on it shall be put in last place.

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