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No Spark - Unless It Isn't Needed

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  • No Spark - Unless It Isn't Needed

    Hey Guys and Gals!

    No I haven't fallen off the earth I h ave just been insanely busy running a company. Have an interesting issue with the 88 GTA though, some of you may find it interesting.

    In April I drove the car to Alabama and back and it ran GREAT, rolled over 100,000 on the trip. The only problem we had was with the VATS, of course it sometimes doesn't like to allow the car to start even though the chip is in the key. Recently though we have had a new problem.

    Every once in a while the car will just not start, I hear the fuel pump come on but nothing except for cranking over at the usual rate. I will then usually just drive the Ram to wherever I need to go them the next day or even once I get home to diagnose the problem but then the thing starts on the FIRST crank.

    The GTA has always started on the first crank since I got it at 75,000. The big problem was back in October I was coming back home after gassing up and it just shut itself off. I attempted to start it after waiting 5 minutes, then sprayed starting fluid and still not even a pop. So I called for a tow. I went to finally get around to working on the car today since it was a nice 55 degrees, low and behold after a $80 tow it starts on the first crank and runs like a champ due to the premium fuel that was nearly $4 a gallon when it went in .

    Any thoughts? My major thought is the VATS is disabling spark but I may be wrong on how VATS works.
    It's easier to make a 3rd gen faster than to make a 4th gen look good

  • #2
    VATS is fuel related. What I would check first is your ignition module on the distributor.

    1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
    1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
    1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

    2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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    • #3
      Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
      VATS is fuel related. What I would check first is your ignition module on the distributor.
      After this try looking at the crank sensor? different car and motor I know... i know.. but my Cousins 1989 olds 98 was doing the exact same thing... turned out to be the crank sensor..

      2001 Bright Rally Red Camaro SS
      - M6, Livernois Stage 3 ported 243 heads, Livernois 230/236 114 LSA cam, FRPP 36# injectors, Ported TB, SLP MAF, Volant CAI, Kooks 1 3/4 headers & ORY, GMMG Cat-back. Koni SA 4/3's, BMR springs, Founders Performance, STB, LCA's and Panhard bar.

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      • #4
        Will check out both of those things today. I have a brand spankin' new ICM in the other Trans Am which is now dead, will grab that. Will also check that crank sensor. Whats driving me nuts is the only code its throwing is that it is running lean but that is like that on purpose and has been since the guy I bought it from had it.
        It's easier to make a 3rd gen faster than to make a 4th gen look good

        Comment


        • #5
          No crank sensor in these motors. There is a pickup coil in the distributor. Hell, just pull the whole dizzy from your other car and swap it it if you have the know how.

          1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
          1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
          1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

          2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

          Comment


          • #6
            And it shouldn't be throwing any codes, unless it has a big cam in it. If that's the case, it should have been tuned, and any good tuner can set it to run closed loop above a certain RPM/LV8 (or I can anyway )

            1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
            1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
            1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

            2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

            Comment


            • #7
              If you suspect the VATS is malfunctioning in the lock cylinder, you can by-pass it by soldering in a resistor along the ignition wire that's the same resitance as your key.
              "Don't Think, Just Replace Opti"

              1996 Firebird Formula M6 Black/Ebony
              K&N CAI, Hooker Supercomp LT's, MGW Short Shifter, DMH cutout, UMI STB and SFC's, LS1 Front Brake conversion, Tune by Madtuner

              1995 Cherokee Sport 4.0L - DD, Stock...for now

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              • #8
                Originally posted by vipergtx500 View Post
                If you suspect the VATS is malfunctioning in the lock cylinder, you can by-pass it by soldering in a resistor along the ignition wire that's the same resitance as your key.
                Or it can be disabled in the PROM. Does your key have a letter stamped on it? Use that to look up the resistance value needed.

                1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                Comment


                • #9
                  yeah agree with above statement, if the resistance is wrong the ignition wont start causing no spark or no fuel sometimes both depending on vehicle model and year.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Through all my studies on the TPI, VATS only disables the injector pulse. All spark is controlled by the ignition module, the ECM only commanding the advance.

                    If the pickup coil isn't getting a pulse there will not be spark nor will the injectors fire. If the module is bad (more common) there will not be any spark, and it sounds like the no start is heat soak related...the modules in our cars absolutely HATE heat. They burn up quickly if the thermal paste on the back of them loses it efficiency due to drying out/age.

                    1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                    1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                    1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                    2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      But then again, it could be something as simple as the coil. Might be something as finicky as bad fusible link down by the starter.

                      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Couldn't get into it today unfortunely, had a crappy call last night. Looking at going nuts and tearing apart the Trans Am and just swapping parts over. I did put a new cap and rotor in it though.
                        It's easier to make a 3rd gen faster than to make a 4th gen look good

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'd just swap the whole dizzy and coil over, have a 'pop' and call it a day. What's wrong with the TA?

                          1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                          1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                          1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                          2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            After swapping in the new motor my mother decided to crash into an I-Beam which has been infront of our house for 25 years. That and the transmission is messed up thanks to the new motor. Would just switch it all out but not entirely sure I want to mess with popping a distributor out while our garage is full. Have both of them sitting in a parking lot at the moment.
                            It's easier to make a 3rd gen faster than to make a 4th gen look good

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well, if you feel like selling let me know. I have a low mile 700r4 that's mildly built sitting in my garage waiting to go into something.

                              1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                              1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                              1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                              2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                              Comment

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