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  • Sound deadener / Insulation / Boom mat / etc

    Who has used these on a 4th gen? Where did you put it and how big of a difference did it make? Would you use it again?

    Got the car out for the first time since the M&G and things like road noise, squeeks, and rattles were getting on my nerves yesterday. If I get some of this kind of stuff taken care of I think I would be a lot more likely to drive it and really make driving it enjoyable and feel like I am settling with the car.
    1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

  • #2
    How loud is your exhaust?
    How loud are your tires?

    What is your budget?
    I would start with 40 square feet of damplifer pro from second skin audio. I would recommend trying to get coverage on areas with flat surfaces and wheel wells.

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    • #3
      Exhaust is not that loud unless the cutout is open, which is almost never. Getting old and grumpy I guess!

      Tires are BFG KDWs pretty loud by the sound of it, but quieter than the HTRZ III's I had before.

      Budget is.... IDK, I just got thinking about it this weekend. Whats it cost?
      1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

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      • #4
        Originally posted by sman View Post
        Exhaust is not that loud unless the cutout is open, which is almost never. Getting old and grumpy I guess!

        Tires are BFG KDWs pretty loud by the sound of it, but quieter than the HTRZ III's I had before.

        Budget is.... IDK, I just got thinking about it this weekend. Whats it cost?

        You could spend thousands! There are dozen or products out there that re designed to do something a little better than the other.
        When I did my Chevelle I budgeted $300 for heat/vibration/ noise dampening. I ended up install damplifier in the doors and most of the floor.

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        • #5
          Hmm, definitely have to do some more research!
          1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

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          • #6
            A low dollar answer is to buy a couple of hot water heater insulation packages and put it under the carpet. Will cut noise and heat very reasonably. Available at home depot
            When in doubt, Whip it out !

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            • #7
              I used Fatmat in my iroc. It was cheap, installed easy, and made a big impact

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              • #8
                For squeaks and rattles, use closed cell foam or felt tape to isolate the interior panels that are rubbing against each other. Simple, cheap, and lightweight.

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                • #9
                  I used closed cell foam duct insulation with the foil backing. From lowes . Did the entire floor for around $80.00 could havedone more. The insulation isnt hard, its the disassembly/ reassembly thats the problem.
                  Last edited by zeeman; July 6th, 2015, 08:55 PM.

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                  • #10
                    I used CLD tiles from sound deadener showdown in my car. I also picked up some 1/8" closed cell foam locally and some .75lb/sq ft MLV from Home Depot. The SDS foam and MLV are far superior IMO, but far more expensive.

                    I lined the doors of my vert with all three (well, about 25% coverage on the CLD), I threw the CCF and some CLD tiles (no MLV) behind the plastic trim on the sides of the rear seat (think coupe sail panels). It helped, but I still was getting a ton of noise with the top up. I realized that the vast majority of the noise was coming from the trunk, so I layered it all on the parcel shelf and the trunk and it did make a noticeable improvement. People claim "it's like a bank vault" which is horseshit...it never will be IMO, but it definitely cut down on road/ambient noise. I'd like to do behind the seat back and the floors, but just haven't felt like pulling the interior out to do it. I will at some point.

                    Between new (ContiExtreme DW's) and the insulation, my road noise with the top up has gone down significantly. I could be imagining it, but it really does seem quieter with the top down as well.

                    I used:
                    40 CLD Tiles: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...tiles%E2%84%A2 (bought 40, used maybe 25-30 so far. Will use rest on floor)
                    25' 1/8" 2lb Polyethylene: http://www.thefoamfactory.com/closed...foam-roll.html
                    2 rolls of DB-3: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...96BX/100663624 (may need 1 more to completely cover the passenger floor)

                    CLD gets rid of the "tinnyness" and clanging
                    MLV gets rid of road noise
                    Foam is needed as a barrier with the MLV, and also helps with squeaks/rattles from our plastic laden interiors.
                    Last edited by Atrus; July 7th, 2015, 07:17 AM.
                    2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                    • #11
                      FWIW, in total I have spent about $200 on this stuff, maybe $225. If you told me that price up front, I may not have done it. If you told me it wouldn't be perfectly silent, I probably wouldn't have done it...

                      now that it's done, though, I am happy that I did it. It really does make the car more enjoyable for me. My test was a 275 mile trek to the upper peninsula in late June. I drove for 4 hours straight and the car was much more enjoyable. It's certainly not bank vault quiet, but it did reduce the noise enough that I am more comfortable and I feel it's worthwhile. My biggest noise maker now is my rear axle. That thing howls quite a bit...need to get it checked out.
                      2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                      • #12
                        I'm assuming that installing this stuff isn't too hard? Just need a roller and what not? I'd like to apply it to my rear deck so it doesn't rattle when my volume is up (from the subs). I have a roll of Dynamat, but have never gotten around to installing it.
                        Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                        "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                        • #13
                          Yeah, I just got a maple roller. I am sure HD has them, I know Amazon does. I got it with SDS along with the tiles as that was my cheapest option. I had a big "tin" of rubbing alcohol, so I just used that and a paper towel to wipe down the area, then applied the tiles (I did cut a lot of them into smaller pieces) and then used the roller to adhere them.

                          http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...h-maple-roller

                          Also, if you're not real hip on sound insulation, read the SDS site...lots of good information. Dynamat/CLD products aren't needed on every panel, and even panels that could benefit from them don't need 100% coverage. There's a huge point of diminishing return on those products.
                          2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                          • #14
                            The absolute 100% best bang for your buck is making sure the chassis is sealed well. Old body seals will allow air to leak into the vehicle which is your biggest contributor to noise. Things like bad weather seals, grommets in the firewall, out of adjustment windows etc. Anywhere there is just a single sheet of metal between you and a noise source is going to be low hanging fruit as well. Sealed up sail panels with the double walls of sheet are not going to have a lot of transmission. From there I'd go to worn engine/trans and suspension mounts and look at insulating the wheel wells. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do about body wind noise from the A-pillars or mirrors.
                            1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator

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