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I can't reach my hand between the body and the bell housing to put in one more bolt and tighten two.
The bullet proof bell housing is not tapered like the old bell housing.
So my question is, if I undo the front shocks can I lower the K member like 3in without unhooking anything else?
Originally posted by Yoshi94
Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
Originally posted by ryanwarby01
Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
Yeah my plan was to undo the shocks from inside the engine bay.
Put the body on jackstands.
Put a jack under the k member.
Unbolt the 6 bolts.
Use the jack to lower the k member.
Finish the Bell housing bolts.
Jack the k member back up and bolt it back in.
I just need room to get my hand between the bell housing and the tranny tunnel.
Originally posted by Yoshi94
Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
Originally posted by ryanwarby01
Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
You also will probably have to disconnect the brake lines at the antilock unit they go from ther to the kframe for the front brakes. Also the A/C line that goes to evap coil in front of radiator, and probably you radiator hoses.
sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
Now from what I gather is, the dowels go into the block which then offsets the bell housing. Wouldn't that cause the bolt holes to misalign? Or is that so small it doesn't effect the bolts going in?
Originally posted by Yoshi94
Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
Originally posted by ryanwarby01
Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
Now from what I gather is, the dowels go into the block which then offsets the bell housing. Wouldn't that cause the bolt holes to misalign? Or is that so small it doesn't effect the bolts going in?
Well considering a hair is .003" thick - your bolts aren't going to notice.
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