Your method to prime a new/rebuilt LS engine?

[Formula Z]

now after having spun a bearing (im sure) and trying to figure out what happened, Im questioning everything I did reinstalling my engine. Up until now the only way I knew to prime an engine without a distributor was to just pull the fuel pump fuse or disable the coil packs and roll the car over until you have oil pressure, which is what I did. A friend at work is saying that this may have caused my premature failure. i cant seem to wrap my head around how after only 5000 (not so easy) miles, a dozen passes down the 1320, and a dyno tune, how this happens now. Actually happened driving it nicely and not beating on it. I was on my 3rd oil change about ready to put the synthetic in for the winter.

Anyways Im finding this pressurized air tank oiling system thing and wondering if its worth the hassle or is doing it the way I did ok? builder Im sure had plenty of assembly lube on parts that should have protected it until engine got full oil pressure right?

I just dont want any issues this time...

oh yeah and I think engine is coming out saturday. I will drop the pan to look inside but letting my builder disassemble it

[1BADAIR]

pressure prime if possible.
if its lubed correctly during assemble just turn the key and start. our pumps dont really do a thing at cranking rpm. some say it just wipes the lube out. i make sure the tune is close and fire them up

[Formula Z]

good to know

[1BADAIR]

need pictures of your old stuff before we can conclude anything

[xDetroitMetalx]

Pressure prime is the way to go.

[shawnc16]

We spin them up on the dyno (GM Powertrain) at a low rpm and let pressure build. Don't start it without pressure. Obviously there are other methods, but these engines take a beating and have zero issues with abnormal bearing wear

[Formula Z]

unless you add arp rod bolts obviously. thanks guys, anyone else?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

unless you add arp rod bolts obviously. thanks guys, anyone else?

not on this subject so much but I would personally tear the shortblock down yourself and take a look at the damage.

[meissen]

Have you drained the oil and checked for gas? I've always primed my LT1 using the method you described, yank the injector fuse and crank for a few seconds. I seriously doubt your priming method was the reason why it spun a bearing. I would think either the piston rings didn't seat and you have gas in your oil or something else with the oil delivery system failed. Did you ever notice a drop in oil pressure?

[Formula Z]

if i tear into it it myself im worried he wont work with me on repairs. no gas in oil only gold sparklies and no never noticed a drop in psi until it was too late

[meissen]

How are you planning on taking it to him? Short block or long block? By the time you get it stripped down to just the short, you'll be able to cross a bunch off your list. I'm curious to see what you'll find in the pan and with the pickup tube. I know it's an LS compared to the LT, but something in the lubrication obviously failed...

[SS4Matt]

I just use some nice assembly lube liberally and fire the thin up. And then throw the car on the dyno. If the mmotor blows I take it out. If it lives I keep it in. That is my Break/In policy. But I've never spun a bearing, just cracked bores open...

[Formula Z]

shortblock

[OIF1VET]

Good luck Saturday. Hope it comes out with no issues. Sorry, can't help. Will be on the road..

[WMCCjames]

May I ask who did the machine work on it..or is that a secret?