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anyone ever install a p/s cooler?

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  • #16
    glad to know guys. thanks for the info, and thanks fred for postin up! probly gonna put mine either right above or right below my intercooler.
    98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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    • #17
      The stock LS1 type goes inline with the radiator hose doesn't it?
      sigpic

      1996 Base Model
      +2 cylinder mod

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      • #18
        What do you guys think of this idea?

        I already have my bumper cut, from when I had a FMIC...

        Ill probably stick the cover back on for street driving, but at the track, should be good flow... right?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by BAMF TA View Post
          What do you guys think of this idea?

          I already have my bumper cut, from when I had a FMIC...

          Ill probably stick the cover back on for street driving, but at the track, should be good flow... right?

          makes sense to me. i was looking at mine, and think i'm gonna do both below my intercooler. not sure how to route oil cooler tho.. does the oil cooler go on the high pressure side before the turbos? wouldnt want it to slow the flow down on the drain side..
          98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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          • #20
            Originally posted by jderry View Post
            The stock LS1 type goes inline with the radiator hose doesn't it?
            yes. thats why i dont understand how it can really cool the ps fluid down much.. being "cooled" by 200+ degree coolant
            98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
              yes. thats why i dont understand how it can really cool the ps fluid down much.. being "cooled" by 200+ degree coolant
              A constant 200 degrees isn't bad, well within operating temps. It takes a lot more to degrade the fluid.

              1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
              1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
              1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

              2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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              • #22
                Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                A constant 200 degrees isn't bad, well within operating temps. It takes a lot more to degrade the fluid.
                whats power steering fluids boiling temp?
                98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Gaspo View Post
                  whats power steering fluids boiling temp?
                  Right around 425 degrees


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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Superman09 View Post
                    Definitely a good idea, I had mine boil over at BeaveRun and since then installed a Z06 cooler and never had another problem. Pretty sure Joel boiled his over at Grattan too! Maybe see if you can pick up a cooler from a C5 Z06? I would assume it would probably be a pretty simply install other than finding a place to mount it on an f-body.
                    Lol i boiled it over 3 or 4 times that day! Good times! You saved me with that bottle of fluid you had.
                    -Joel
                    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
                      Right around 425 degrees
                      Actually anything above 302F (150C) gets you into the Flashpoint of that fluid. All you need is an ignition source.
                      195-210F is a walk in the park for any F-body steering system 69 -2002. (I can't speak much on the late models since they're currently in production)

                      You will boil over because there is air in the system. When you boil over you need to re-bleed the system of air via vacuum pump, or by lifting the front end and cycling the steering left to right lock without the engine running. Then top off to the Cold mark, and drive the vehicle for 10 miles, and re-check. Fluid should be set to the Hot mark and not over.
                      When the fluid heats up, it will expand, so if you over-fill it will expand up and out of the cap and onto your engine. If your lucky, it will only make a mess. If your un-lucky, you'll have a very quick flash fire.
                      If you continue to "boil" even when cold - you've got an air leak somewhere. Either bad O-ring or damage to the pump if it was severely overheated (302F plus).

                      Removing or leaving out a power steering cooler on these vehicles is not a good idea.
                      In the event you actually boil the power steering fluid (much different than air because it will be smoking along with the hoses), I strongly suggest replacing the entire power steering system (Gear, pump, hoses, and cooler).

                      Originally posted by Boost Addict View Post
                      It will have high pressure crimped fittings. Return should just have hose clamps.
                      Not always, Depends on application.
                      The other way is that the pressure hose will have a heavy duty appearance, almost like a cloth hose cover and will go from the Pump to the gear.
                      Coming out of the gear to the cooler is the low pressure side, or return side.
                      Last edited by TrickyTransAm; January 14th, 2012, 03:10 PM.

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                      • #26
                        You ever do this Fred? I'd suggest removing your fogs and putting this right behind that hole in the bumper. You could also run a duct straight to it from the fog light holes if you wanted.
                        Joe - ATM SQUAD
                        At the shop, watching them build my car.

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