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need help choosing a cam!!!

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  • need help choosing a cam!!!

    im clueless when it comes to understanding cams. so im trying to find the best came for my set up

    stock long block LT1
    LT headers, ORY, 3in catback
    CAI, elbow, airfoil
    1.6RR with behive 918's

    (possible a set of advanced induction heads, but thats down the road)

    im looking for a nice agressive idle but with good street driving and power from 2000-6000rpm range. i really want that choppy cam sound.

    if anyone can help that would be very much appreciated. thanks
    HISTORY OF CARS PAST AND PRESANT (none of them were wrecked)

    1989 S10 standard with 350 carb'd, th350, shift kit, shorties, 600cfm, hooker TD's, 3.23 non posi, B&M shifter(sold)

    1991 firebird with t-tops and 3.1L, 700r4, 3.23 non posi, flowmaster cat back, 15ibs injectors, (sold)

    1991 formula with t-tops, WS6, 5.0TPI, WC T5. 3.42 posi. magnaflow cat back, 52mm TB, and hurst billet (sold)

    1994 camaro z28 with t-tops, 5.7LT1, T56, 3.42 posi. CAI, elbow, Airfoil, SFC, STB, pro 5.0, flowmaster cat back. (sold)

    2000 Trans am with t-tops, 5.7LS1, T56, 3.42posi, LT'S, ORY, magnaflow, lid, lingenfelter intake, 3pt SFC, STB, LCA, (current)

  • #2
    I'd look into whatever cam Joel got. I was a firm believer of the CC503 until I saw Joel's car dyno.
    - Brian Meissen
    Owner, MiFBody.com
    Administrator, LTxTech.com


    1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
    2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
    Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
    June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
    The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

    Comment


    • #3
      Never pic a cam on sound. Do you want to sound fast, or do you want to BE fast. I agree, I would PM Joel, or he will probably chime in here. I also dont recomend picking a cam based on future mods, everything has to match very closely, espically since you have a 6 speed and dont have a converter to fall back on. Im trying to pick a cam for my 6 speed build, its tough to find that balance between low rpm streetability, mid range torque, and high end hp. I would call Lloyd Elliot or AI and tell them what you have and what you are looking to acomplish. Good luck. Eric L

      1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
      http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/


      1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
      http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/

      Comment


      • #4
        I agree with both of these guys here and Joel would probably be the best car to compare too. His cam sounds great and it has proven to perform even better then it sounds. He is a 6 speed as well.
        sigpic
        1992 Chevy Camaro 25th Anniversary-SOLD
        1992 Chevy Camaro 25th Anniversary
        1997 Chevrolet Corvette

        The Original
        Originally posted by meissen
        I actually agree with Darren on everything he said...
        Originally posted by 81DaytonaPaceCar
        Yep, pretty much...not too often I agree 100% with Darren, but there it is...


        Comment


        • #5
          Ai 226/234 would be a great choice. (same as Joel)

          Comment


          • #6
            *Finally chiming in*

            Merry Christmas!

            http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...ery-happy.html

            and here are some more clips for ya


            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

            Comment


            • #7
              What kind of numbers are you putting down with that cam?? also how bad of a tune does it need to drive on?
              HISTORY OF CARS PAST AND PRESANT (none of them were wrecked)

              1989 S10 standard with 350 carb'd, th350, shift kit, shorties, 600cfm, hooker TD's, 3.23 non posi, B&M shifter(sold)

              1991 firebird with t-tops and 3.1L, 700r4, 3.23 non posi, flowmaster cat back, 15ibs injectors, (sold)

              1991 formula with t-tops, WS6, 5.0TPI, WC T5. 3.42 posi. magnaflow cat back, 52mm TB, and hurst billet (sold)

              1994 camaro z28 with t-tops, 5.7LT1, T56, 3.42 posi. CAI, elbow, Airfoil, SFC, STB, pro 5.0, flowmaster cat back. (sold)

              2000 Trans am with t-tops, 5.7LS1, T56, 3.42posi, LT'S, ORY, magnaflow, lid, lingenfelter intake, 3pt SFC, STB, LCA, (current)

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by scoutsniper View Post
                What kind of numbers are you putting down with that cam?? also how bad of a tune does it need to drive on?
                the answer to that question and a dyno sheet is within the ls1tech link i gave you

                I drove it around for 2000 miles untuned. Then i just made some guesses here and there on the VE tables and it made the numbers it did
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                Comment


                • #9
                  lets be honest here I wouldn't ever go around and recommend that people drive around with an untuned cam car. IMHO I would gather all the parts for the swap, install it all, then immediately plan a tune for the car. Some run "ok" on a stock tune but your going to be leaving power on the table bigtime and the car is not capable of self adjusting enough for a cam swap so it won't run "safe" enough for me to drive on it a lot. Tuning is so underestimated and overlooked its sickening, tuning a bone stock car can show great gains in not just power but drivability and mpg as well.
                  Doing less with more


                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Post
                    lets be honest here I wouldn't ever go around and recommend that people drive around with an untuned cam car. IMHO I would gather all the parts for the swap, install it all, then immediately plan a tune for the car. Some run "ok" on a stock tune but your going to be leaving power on the table bigtime and the car is not capable of self adjusting enough for a cam swap so it won't run "safe" enough for me to drive on it a lot. Tuning is so underestimated and overlooked its sickening, tuning a bone stock car can show great gains in not just power but drivability and mpg as well.
                    Completely agree. I was just stubborn and wanted to learn how to tune on my own rather than take it to a tuner. A cam swap should ALWAYS be tuned.
                    -Joel
                    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                    Comment

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