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  • #1

    exhaust manifold / head removal

    I am trying to get my exhaust manifold off. The problem one is the drivers side, the second to last bolt is rusted down to less than a 12mm socket but an 11 wont go on. There isnt room to swing a hammer to beat anything on, or weld a nut on to it. I just wasted 3 hours trying to figure out how to get this thing off. My next thought was to use an open end wrench on the outside head bolts, after removing the ones under the valve cover, to remove the entire head. I was doing this anyways to put new gaskets on it.. But I dont think I would be able to get at the ones behind the exhaust flange.
    Why is that one bolt so destroyed yet none of the others? wtf am I going to do now? If anyone has any tips or tricks I love to hear about them, I am fresh out of idea's at the moment.
    Tags: beat, bolt, cover, destroyed, dow, drivers, end, exhaust, head, hours, idea, love, manifold, moment, open, problem, removal, removing, side, socket, thought, tips, valve, weld, wtf
  • #2
    12 point or 6 point socket? There is a world of difference between the two.

    Also now is a good time to douse it in PB blaster and take a breather.
    Last edited by JoeliusZ28; October 16th, 2013, 10:55 PM.
    -Joel
    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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    • #3
      7/16 wrench a no go? (11.1125mm)

      1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
      1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
      1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

      2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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      • #4
        yeah tried 6 and 12 point both, 7/16 and 11 mm wont go on. I am either going to have to cut/drill/grind it off. or try welding a nut to it again. I just need to figure out a way to get the nut in position and held so I can weld it from under the car. I am starting to remember why I haven't built a car up in a few years. I think I will be using stainless fasteners to put this back together.

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        • #5
          Use the side of the ratchet to pound a 9/16th on. It might take a minute but where theres a will theres way


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          • #6
            I agree figure out a way to force the socket on even if u need to go buy a special tool to pry against the shock tower. Also you might be able to gain some access by disconnecting the driver side engine mount (makes installing the header easier anyway)

            Edit: also keep dousing that bolt in PB blaster!
            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; October 17th, 2013, 07:25 AM.
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

            Comment

            • #7
              Yeah I was just thinking to disconnect that one engine mount and tip the engine to the side. Then get a socket and large pry bar and try and squeeze 'er on there. Even then, with the engine tipped you might have enough room to torch the end of the nut off and then weld a good nut on the stub after you slide the flange off. That way you can turn the stud out when the manifold is off. I'd also recommend putting that bolt through a few heat cycles before trying to turn it if it's that rusted ... maybe a long air chisel bit to carefully try and turn the bolt loose to start, and vice grip it out the rest of the way? Make sure the bit is sharp enough to create a dig mark into the head of the bolt so you can actually apply turning force on it, versus just trying to knock the head off with the air hammer.
              91 Firebird 305 TBI

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              • #8
                I dont have much more than hand tools, No air, a map gas torch is all I have for heat. I do have a small wire feed welder, I use it to get myself into trouble for the most part. I guess I will have to remove the motor mount bolt and jack it up some. I wasted another 3 hours on it today. bought a set of extractors, what a useless invention those are. I am going to have to find a way to either drill off the head or grind it off. F-me, this sucks. I hope I dont end up pulling the motor for this bolt.
                As far as beating anything on it I have about 3 inches to work in with the steering shaft running through it, I would LOVE to beat something on there...believe me! I need to take some aggression out on that bolt . There just isnt any way to do it. Now that I have a couple of nice weld blobs on it there isnt any way to get squat on it now anyhow.

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                • #9
                  Welcome to working on old cars

                  I would have sacrificed an old wrench, slightly enlarging the opening, and using copious amounts of heat as a last ditch effort. Might have to drop the cradle for this one...

                  Sucks that most people on this site are located across the state from me. I'd load up every tool needed if you were a short trip away

                  1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                  1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                  1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                  2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

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                  • #10
                    I'd just drop the k-member - it's an easy process and then you'll have full access to everything.
                    2000 Formula
                    fixed slow junk

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                    • #11
                      I GOT THE S.O.B!!!!!!!!!!!


                      Whooooooeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                      OK . I had to use a drill, after I removed the oil sender, to drill through the head of the bolt sideways. Using progressively larger drill bits until the head was cut free. Then just slid the manifold off of the stud. The stud didnt know when to give up though and needed some temperature persuasion and I was finally able to use those extractors for something. So now back to removing the rest of the heads and valve covers so I can get the rest of this job over..... why was I doing this again? .....

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View Post
                        Welcome to working on old cars

                        I would have sacrificed an old wrench, slightly enlarging the opening, and using copious amounts of heat as a last ditch effort. Might have to drop the cradle for this one...

                        Sucks that most people on this site are located across the state from me. I'd load up every tool needed if you were a short trip away

                        Thats damn nice of you.

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