installing ls1 harmonic balancer HELP!!

[TRY MEH]

so im down to the last thing i need to do. ***installing harmonic balancer***
quick run down of my car

motor is installed in the car 2000 trans am ws6..
ls2 swap
t56
drive shaft hooked up
put trans in a higher gear *so car wont roll when torqued
i have tried to impact the balancer on but only got so far (i know its not a good thing to do for it but i stopped half way)

from what i read i need to torque this harmonic balancer down 240ft pounds with the old bolt and install the new bolt to 37ft pounds and 140 degree turn..
i have seen many people saying not to use old bolt and many people saying to use it im having mixed feelings about trying this!

if anyone has a tool or anything for me to use or would be willing to help me out id really really appreciate that!!! id be willing to pay your gas out to me and back and toss some extra money your way!
i cant chance messing up at this point.

thanks

[WMCCjames]

Heat the center hub up slightly with a torch...the balancer will slip right on. Just be careful not to get it too hot or you will melt the rubber.

[c0ncEpT]

Heat the center hub up slightly with a torch...the balancer will slip right on. Just be careful not to get it too hot or you will melt the rubber.

That or put the entire thing in the oven. Be careful not to pull the threads out of the crank trying to start it with the stock bolt tho.

[sman]

I keep a piece of threaded rod around just for this. Thread it into the crank all the way, then use some washers and a nut to push it on. Its like using the stock bolt but gets you full thread engagement so you dont have to worry about tearing the threads out of the crank.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I do the same go pick up some threaded rod.

[1BADAIR]

Threaded rod is best. If not ls7 bolt

[TRY MEH]

I keep a piece of threaded rod around just for this. Thread it into the crank all the way, then use some washers and a nut to push it on. Its like using the stock bolt but gets you full thread engagement so you dont have to worry about tearing the threads out of the crank.

do i need to apply heat using this method also?
i mean im sure it helps just wondering if it was necessary.

im trying to torque it down under the car how in the world do i get that much leverage to torque it down that much?
i was doing pull ups on this thing..

[DETROITMUSCLE]

the heat will make the balancer go on the snout easier but won't help you reach that torque spec. The proper tool is a very lang handle torque stick, if this is not an option then you could use a long breaker bar.

[Nocooler]

Another vote for threaded rod - it's a fairly common size.

Even with the car in gear, tires blocked, and the ebrake on you probably won't be able to get the torque spec on the bolt.

My car always wants to spin the tires when torque'ing that damn bolt. I have no issues with a flywheel locking tool

[sman]

The heat will only help you for a second. Once it touches the snout of the crank the cold crank will suck the heat out of the balancer and it will quickly shrink and you might as well have never heated it up. If you are using the rod dont waste your time.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

have to agree with Jermey get a tool to lock the flywheel, have to do this with an auto regardless.

[WMCCjames]

The heat will only help you for a second. Once it touches the snout of the crank the cold crank will suck the heat out of the balancer and it will quickly shrink and you might as well have never heated it up. If you are using the rod dont waste your time.

Haha...you did it wrong then. Ive used this method more times than I can count...Gen 1 SBC's are a little trickier but LS1's are cake.

[1BADAIR]

Heat will effect the distance that its pressed on which torquing the bolt controls

[meissen]

I think the difference between the heat methods is James was saying to use a torch which would be continuous heat whereas others are talking about put it in an oven where it would lose height the moment it comes out of the oven, right?

[TrickyTransAm]

I purchased a grade 8 long bolt as an installation tool since the stock fastner is a torque to yield bolt and once it's been installed, the material is at risk of breaking a second time.

I just use washers, and the bolt to walk the balancer on. Block the flywheel from turning via a lock tool.
I follow the GM spec with torque and angle and use a new GM torque to yield bolt.

You can use a strong dowel to block the flywheel, but there is a risk of bending the flywheel, or damaging something that it comes in contact with.
Using heat is a neat idea, but use caution that you don't melt out the front seal in the process.... I can't imagine the front seal was designed to meet more than 300F.
Badair is correct, just as lubricant on the threads will affect the torque of the bolt as will re-installing an old fastener with more efficient threads.

I think the difference between the heat methods is James was saying to use a torch which would be continuous heat whereas others are talking about put it in an oven where it would lose height the moment it comes out of the oven, right?

Yea, I dont like the torch idea. You don't know how hot your getting it.
Depends on how long he leaves it in the oven.... usually 2 hours is a good heat soak. But again...I can't imagine the rubber on the balancer or the seal is rated for those temperatures.