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It sounds like I just need to do the 383 like I orignally planned, then.
If I could get the car in the mid-high 11's..heck, even lower 12's, id be happy. Is that a reasonable exspectation? Our am I dreaming?
Ive cracked a mid 12 out of my car with street tires and a 6 speed. It was stupid luck on the launch, but I did it.
Stalled auto and stickies with my engine would be bottom 12s consistently.
Close --- 373 HP. My heads are NOT ported, just valve bowls cleaned up. I'd like to try a set of the trick flow 21 degree heads, but the sucker runs so good as it is I dont wanna mess with it
Ah - thanks for the correction sir. I knew it was just the bowls because that's all I have done on mine, but I should've been more clear on that one.
I guess technically it is some degree of porting, but when people say ported heads that usually means the volume/dimensions of the runners have been increased which isnt the case for me.
I guess technically it is some degree of porting, but when people say ported heads that usually means the volume/dimensions of the runners have been increased which isnt the case for me.
and this is with a stock rotating assy and stock heads? or a 383? what do you think i could expect with a relatively mild (street friendly) 383 stroker with a mild cam, bigger injectors and basic bolts ons like headers and cold air intake ( or a ram air setup)? and maybe like a 3600-3800 stall?
also, what other mods would be beneficial without sacraficing street ethics?
As for your question, it is all how you build it. Use a GOOD cam grind (there are many underperforming ones), good parts, and take the time to figure out what valve lash setting the engine likes best, and get a good tune. Ive stomped the snot out of some 383 builds, and many LS cars as well. LT1s require attention to detail. If you can do that youll have good results no matter the setup. If i changed my setup to a 383 and a stalled auto it should theoretically be good for about a 12.0. But dont expect the same numbers as me if you leave a restrive air intake (filter) and a single exhaust on. LT1s like to breathe!
Another mod i have done is an Electric water pump. Other than ensuring a good power connection i have seen no downfalls to having one. I run cool on the street, track, autox, and road course.
I also recomend the GM "white" spring for the LT1 oil pump to get your oil pressure up to where ot should be.
If you want to get a feel for how my car runs my screenname on youtube is the same as here. I wont discourage an ls swap either.. No matter what you do its not going to be wallet friendly
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; June 13th, 2012, 09:04 AM.
As for your question, it is all how you build it. Use a GOOD cam grind (there are many underperforming ones), good parts, and take the time to figure out what valve lash setting the engine likes best, and get a good tune. Ive stomped the snot out of some 383 builds, and many LS cars as well. LT1s require attention to detail. If you can do that youll have good results no matter the setup. If i changed my setup to a 383 and a stalled auto it should theoretically be good for about a 12.0. But dont expect the same numbers as me if you leave a restrive air intake (filter) and a single exhaust on. LT1s like to breathe!
Another mod i have done is an Electric water pump. Other than ensuring a good power connection i have seen no downfalls to having one. I run cool on the street, track, autox, and road course.
I also recomend the GM "white" spring for the LT1 oil pump to get your oil pressure up to where ot should be.
If you want to get a feel for how my car runs my screenname on youtube is the same as here. I wont discourage an ls swap either.. No matter what you do its not going to be wallet friendly
where it should be??? my car has 181k on the clock and still holds 60+psi at anything above idle, it drops to about 15-20 at idle when warm. i figured that was pretty good for such a high milage engine...no??? they can make more!? while i dont want to waste money, and like anyone i want the most bang for my buck. i already have pace setter long tubes (not installed yet) and I have a 3"hooker exh. to put on ( not duals though ) i would run a ram air or cold air intake, but would it be wise to run aftermarket intake and plenum as well? or would a posrted and polished stocker be adequate?
id be satisfied with mid 12's , but like any gearhead...high 11's to low 12's would be nicer. but i also dont want to go faster if it means the difference of being a street friendly ...know what i mean? i want somthing to drive to the strip on saturday and church on sunday
Personally I'm neurotic and would probably want a shortblock with lower miles, but regardless, if all you want are high 11's/low 12's, drop the $3k for an AI top end and assorted parts to go with it and you'll have more than enough power to get there and still be streetable. Obviously you still need to set up the rest of the car to support that, but engine-wise you'll have more than enough to meet your goals.
my 383 made 406rwhp on dyno, car has run 11.40's at 119 mph. It is 3700lbs with air conditioning and is very streetable. Lots of good head and cam choices out there for the LT1.
Last edited by FASHOOTER; June 13th, 2012, 09:06 PM.
sigpicJust a slow 400 plus RWHP LT1.....428/370 NA
my 383 made 406rwhp on dyno, car has run 11.40's at 119 mph. It is 3700lbs with air conditioning and is very streetable. Lots of good head and cam choices out there for the LT1.
If your not in any hurry to build my heads and cam will be for sale this winter, going a little bigger
WOW...thats what im after...and im in no hurry at all. what do you have done as far as the bottom end? besides being stroked? what size cam? whats done to the injection? in all honesty, it sounds like im just going to be compliling a stock of parts as money allows, find a complete rebuildable engine and just start tearing into it. little by little as time allows. thats why i want to leave my stock engine in the car until the new one is finished and ready to drop in. at the same time i want to make sure the car/chassis is set up to handle it, torque arms, suspension...rear end..etc. etc.
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357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
) i would run a ram air or cold air intake, but would it be wise to run aftermarket intake and plenum as well? or would a posrted and polished stocker be adequate?
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