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Pulling the 3.8 Need suggestions

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  • Pulling the 3.8 Need suggestions

    Hey guys,

    I will be pulling out the 3.8 in the next 2 weeks and the car will be sent off the the body shop. While I have the engine on the stand I would like to take the opportunity to build it stronger, intergrating some of the things we 3.8ers have learned over the years for durability and power.

    I plan on upgrading the oil pump, replacing all the gaskets, and cleaning and painting the engine and engine bay.

    What things should I look to do before the motor goes back in?

    (JUST AN FYI: This car will get an LS1 in about 2 years. I will be buying the parts slowly and correctly)

  • #2
    Anyone out there? Echo... Echo...

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    • #3
      If I remember correctly, the mains in the bottom end are pretty strong, being that they bolt straight down, then two more bolts go in sideways (you'll see what I mean when you get to that point). I took the balance shaft out and plugged the oil jet (very important to get good oil pressure, should you choose this route), so that I could put a true double roller timing chain in and not have the tensioners that were once used with a longer chain. I compensated for not having the balance shaft with having the entire rotating assembly balanced. When I removed the rocker arms, I really wasn't too impressed with the design and went with Harland Sharps (kinda pricey though).
      sigpic

      Why the Hell do I have to press 1 for english?!


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      • #4
        Like I said in person, about the only thing you can do on the inside to increase power without going absolutely nuts with money is to do a different camshaft. This isn't a cheap venture though and should be debated since you are considering an LS1 at a later date. You can beef things up further externally by doing underdrive pulleys, an electric water pump, different headers, etc.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by phoenix_rising View Post

          I plan on upgrading the oil pump,
          Hoe the pump is built into the front cover and goes right on the crank...... Theres a few tricks, and Sinister Drag Designs has a HV Oil filter neck that plugs the unfiltered oil passage, w/ an upgraded spring that puts you ~65 psi @ cold... there were some guys on 3800 doing some trick block work, but i really wouldnt recommend going that deep into it...

          What things should I look to do before the motor goes back in?
          EVERYTHING.... FWIW you can buy a late model lo mile L26 for ~$600 swap you UIM/LIM etc and it should drop right in, i hav eto double check on the sensors, Im pretty sure the only 2 you need to change would be the Oil Pres and the Coolant Temp

          JUST AN FYI: This car will get an LS1 in about 2 years. I will be buying the parts slowly and correctly
          then why bother w/ all the work now? why not wait till you LSx it in the future and do it all at once?

          Rockers... Ive heard good and bad about HS, also heard they might be getting back into the 3800 market w/ newer revised ones (still have to verify), I'd recommend YT's right ow though if you get some. They revised the pedistal issue.....

          Cam IMO the way to go, I also plugged the BS oil journal but you can leave the BS in palce and just remove the gear on the front for dbl roller clearance...If you go dbl roller go Rollmaster, and get your oil pump cover machined for clearence (I didnt have nay issues, but there are quite a few ppl who have had them)

          Feel free to PM, I dont check here as often as i should
          2004 Impala LS (DD)
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          1997 Firebird 3800 (current project)
          http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...oject-FireTurd

          www.hellfiremotorsports.com/garage

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