LS1 Swap

[sman]

You really shouldnt have needed the interior harness. They should be the same 97+, but w/e.

The cheapest/easiest/cleanest way to make your fuel system work is to buy a fuel filter from a 2001 vette. It has an integrated pressure regulator in it. Replace the factory fuel filter with this one, then take the return from the tank and attach it to the filter/regulator. You can then remove the v6 return line that runs up to the engine bay. The v8 cars work basicially this way, the regulator is just in the tank. The fuel pump it self is the same. Ill get you some pictures tonight if I can.

Also if you can get the funds together, cam it and do anything else you want before it goes in the car. It is SO much easier.

If you have any other questions shoot me a PM.

EDIT: Just thought Id add to your shopping list.

LS1 radiator
LS1 coolant tubes, the hoses that run to the heater core. They are aluminum, dealer only, and stupid expensive. Head over to ls1tech and look for someone parting a v8 car out. I picked mine up for $30, vs almost $250 the dealer wanted.
All other radiator hoses
Front springs and shocks
ls1 battery cables(if your engine doesnt come with them) $160, dealer only, PM me if you want to know how to modify your v6 ones to work.
Im also 99% sure youll need a new cluster, anything 99+ from a v8 auto car should do. 98 all the wires from the gauges were sent to the cluster individually, where as 99+(supposedly) the data for all the gauges was sent over the serial data bus, i.e. 1 wire. I used my factory 99 v6 cluster, with a 2002 engine and a 2001 engine harness, everything works and is accurate except oil pressure, which works, just reads wrong.

I spent a good amount of time looking at wiring diagrams while I was doing my swap, so pm me if you want any help.

[Emulsifide]

You really shouldnt have needed the interior harness. They should be the same 97+, but w/e.

The cheapest/easiest/cleanest way to make your fuel system work is to buy a fuel filter from a 2001 vette. It has an integrated pressure regulator in it. Replace the factory fuel filter with this one, then take the return from the tank and attach it to the filter/regulator. You can then remove the v6 return line that runs up to the engine bay. The v8 cars work basicially this way, the regulator is just in the tank. The fuel pump it self is the same. Ill get you some pictures tonight if I can.

Also if you can get the funds together, cam it and do anything else you want before it goes in the car. It is SO much easier.

If you have any other questions shoot me a PM.

EDIT: Just thought Id add to your shopping list.

LS1 radiator
LS1 coolant tubes, the hoses that run to the heater core. They are aluminum, dealer only, and stupid expensive. Head over to ls1tech and look for someone parting a v8 car out. I picked mine up for $30, vs almost $250 the dealer wanted.
All other radiator hoses
Front springs and shocks
ls1 battery cables(if your engine doesnt come with them) $160, dealer only, PM me if you want to know how to modify your v6 ones to work.
Im also 99% sure youll need a new cluster, anything 99+ from a v8 auto car should do. 98 all the wires from the gauges were sent to the cluster individually, where as 99+(supposedly) the data for all the gauges was sent over the serial data bus, i.e. 1 wire. I used my factory 99 v6 cluster, with a 2002 engine and a 2001 engine harness, everything works and is accurate except oil pressure, which works, just reads wrong.

I spent a good amount of time looking at wiring diagrams while I was doing my swap, so pm me if you want any help.

Interesting way of solving the fuel issue. I'd love to see pictures.

After reading about your problem with finding the coolant tubes at a decent price, I made absolutely sure the wrecker I got the engine/trans from included every damn tube connected to the engine. I'm picking everything up tomorrow night, so we'll see how complete it is.

All the other parts are not that big of a deal. Radiators brand new are cheap as hell on eBay. I'm probably going to end up doing a front QA1 setup right off the bat for the suspension. I also have to source a high speed steering rack. Might as well get the one done too while I have everything apart. The gauge cluster can probably be had on car-part.com for cheap provided I find a desperate wrecker again.

I'm leaning toward Stainless Hooker LTs and TSP true duals. I LOVE the sound!

http://ls1sounds.com/true_duals/TDs-...T_Tim99WS6.MPG
http://ls1sounds.com/true_duals/TDs-...S6-driveby.MPG
http://ls1sounds.com/true_duals/TDs-...9WS6-incar.MPG

What's the difference in battery cables? Length or connectors of some sort?

Thanks for the advice. Again, I'm looking forward to seeing the fuel mods you did.

BTW: I followed your entire project over the winter/spring. Awesome job.

[chris2001_15]

Yikes, the dealer told you $250 for the 2 hoses from the heater core to the motor?? I called on the lines yesterday at the local Chevy dealer in st. Clair and they quoted me $130. On top of that I get 25% off list on all dealer parts going through the collision shop i work at. $250 for that piece is just insane

[sman]

Sorry I havent got any pics yet. Been working doubles the last few days. Ill see what I can do for you tomorrow.

[98blackbeauty]

when you get radiator be sure its for auto trans and v8. v8 is thicker for needed cooling and auto has built in trans cooler. Hopefully when they pulled engine they didn't cut heater hoses and trans cooler lines. I know LT 1 trans lines are no longer available through dealer. Not sure of LS 1's

[98blackbeauty]

Yikes, the dealer told you $250 for the 2 hoses from the heater core to the motor?? I called on the lines yesterday at the local Chevy dealer in st. Clair and they quoted me $130. On top of that I get 25% off list on all dealer parts going through the collision shop i work at. $250 for that piece is just insane

did you ask for LS heater hose or LT1 for you car year? the difference is on the engine end where they connect to the water pump. You need LS1 hose for engine not car year. It does get confusing.

[Emulsifide]

I made out like a friggin bandit!! got heater core lines, tranny lines, a/c compressor to evaporator lines, power steering lines, battery cables, BONUS o2 sensor extensions (engine used to have hooker LTs on it), motor mounts, motor mount perches, etc. I'll post pics and more info later on.

[LSxDreamer]

Awesome! Way to score!!!

[chris2001_15]

did you ask for LS heater hose or LT1 for you car year? the difference is on the engine end where they connect to the water pump. You need LS1 hose for engine not car year. It does get confusing.

Yea I priced out the LS style hoses, that is why I was surprised on the price tag someone else got from a different dealership, but I have been dealing with the guys in the parts dept for 4 years so maybe they just like me? lol

[98blackbeauty]

I'll say! you made out very well. Those items nickle dime you at end of conversion, and can run cost up 4000-500 dollars

[sman]

You can use the v6 tranny lines, I did. But you had a stick so you didnt have any to begin with. The ls1 radiator is exactly the same as the 98+ v6. Its made of the same material and is the same thickness. The only difference between the 3.8 and ls1 radiator is the passenger side plastic tank, the ls1 has an extra inlet on it you need for the coolant coming from the heads.

EDIT: Might as well get a tranny cooler while your at it, Hayden makes the best out there. I put the biggest one they make on there, per Mike Ridings. Make sure you get the "transaver" style not the tube fin ones, those are junk. Heres what im running.

Hayden 1679
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=3

I belive brain is running that one as well. I have mine mounted infront of the condenser with the inlet/outlet side facing the passenger side of the car. I think brian mounted his "dope" style, do a search on ls1 tech for "dope style" and you can see how its done.

[sman]

Yea I priced out the LS style hoses, that is why I was surprised on the price tag someone else got from a different dealership, but I have been dealing with the guys in the parts dept for 4 years so maybe they just like me? lol

My dad runs the shop at work, they service 200+ gm vehicles with it and order TONS of parts, that was with a hefty discount. It was special order, and was about 2 weeks out. I got mine off of tech for about 30, and had them here in 4 days.

[chris2001_15]

My dad runs the shop at work, they service 200+ gm vehicles with it and order TONS of parts, that was with a hefty discount. It was special order, and was about 2 weeks out. I got mine off of tech for about 30, and had them here in 4 days.

Nice, I got a bit impatient and ordered the dealer ones I priced got it for $103.. but I needed them before this Friday *shrug* I guess my needing it in 2 days cost me

[Emulsifide]

Back from the dead!!!!!

A lot of stuff has been bought, decided, and performed between last July and now. I apologize for not keeping up on this thread, but it's about to get more interesting.

Let's run down the parts I've been collecting:

eBay Headers (I hope they fit without hitting the UMI K-member. If not, the headers are going bye-bye and something of higher quality will be installed):


Entire 99+ fuel system (with Racetronix fuel pump and wiring harness):


LPP stainless steel true duals:




Z28/SS steering rack:


ws6store.com black zinc coated dimpled/slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Russell stainless steel brake lines, Prothane motor mounts, MSD super wires, NGK TR5 plugs, ARP stainless header studs, and a UMI Performance strut tower brace:


New LS6 valley cover:


New hubs and UMI Performance lower a-arms:


I've got a bunch of other little parts that I can't even remember at the moment. I will post pics of those as things are installed.

Teardown of the 3800 went really well. It took me only a couple hours over a period of a couple days:






The slightly scary part:





Now that the powertrain is out, I've gathered up the following for underbody work:


We've got:
TP Tools coalescing air filter
High volume low pressure (HVLP) air fittings and couplers
Eastwood 1/4" digital air regulator
Eastwood inline disposal air filters
Painting googles with tear-off covers
Painting suit
Painting head socks
DeVilbiss DeKups disposal paint cup system (really effin cool)
Medium screen paint strainer
Eastwood PRE cleaner
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
Eastwood Extreme Chassis gloss black paint
Eastwood Rust Converter

I have a couple more things on the way. Most importantly, a sweet Eastwood Concours HVLP spray gun. Most paint guns operate between 12-15CFM which is way beyond anything that my little Ingersoll Rand Garagemate can put out. Thankfully, Eastwood designed this gun to work on only 4CFM at 29psi, which works perfect for most small garage air compressors.

Before choosing to do this route, I gave POR15 a try on a sample piece of metal. I tried running through all the directions exactly how they specified you to do things, and I still couldn't get it to stick properly. I've seen a lot of people on many different forums saying really good things about Eastwood's system and the fact that the Rust Encapsulator product sticks to everything (including paint that isn't prepped what-so-ever).

I plan on doing the following:

Strip the entire underbody and engine bay of all bolted on items, wiring, fuel/brake lines, etc.
Strip OEM wheel well liner with Dumond Peel Away 7 chemical stripper
Clean everything using POR15 Marine Clean
Scuff everything up using 220 grit
Clean everything again using Eastwood PRE cleaner
Put Eastwood Rust Converter on the really rusty spots
Spray the entire engine bay and underbody with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
Spray the entire engine bay and underbody with Eastwood Extreme Chassis gloss black paint
Coat the inner frame rails with Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust (a waxy goop-like paint)

I also need to find something to use to recoat the wheel wells that's durable. Any ideas? Eastwood's underbody liner products are all rubber based and I think I want something epoxy based that hardens up nicely.

Oh and did I mention that I'm aiming for the car to be completely back together by May 28th? The next couple of months are going to be WILD!!!!

[BP_Z28]

Damn thats alot of parts.