Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

arp rod bolts

Collapse
X
Collapse
Who has read this thread:
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • arp rod bolts

    I am about to do my cam, heads, stall swap. I really want to put some new rod bolts in. Has anyone put them in with the engine in the car? I've always done it with the engine out.

    For the price of rod bolts i hate not to install them, I just dont want to pull the engine.

    thanks
    BTW this is for a WS6

  • #2
    You have to support the engine and drop the K member. I would not use ARP bolts, I would use Katech rod bolts because they are identical to stock ones except a lot stronger. I have heard that ARP bolts distort the big end of the rod and can cause bearing failure.

    Comment


    • #3
      Damn bro..I would not tackle that job with the motor in the car. You nick a journal and your screwed.
      sigpic
      Turbo Charged LS1/T56

      Comment


      • #4
        yeah deff pull the motor out if uw anna do that




        Comment


        • #5
          Don't need to remove the engine: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=675343

          +1 for katech.


          Check out my FQuick!


          TEAM LTWON: JoeliusZ28, 1fstss, pHEnomIC, 96mikez28

          Comment


          • #6
            I keep forgetting how much of a pain in the ass it is for your 4thgen guys to remove a motor. After looking at that write up I can see it's doable but I would use a rob bolt stretch gauge instead of a torque wrench...way more accurate.
            sigpic
            Turbo Charged LS1/T56

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by pHEnomIC View Post
              Don't need to remove the engine: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=675343

              +1 for katech.
              This is correct, but I would not do this w/ the motor in the car. You'll have more time and difficulty in doing this with the motor in than you would pulling the motor and doing it right.

              Comment


              • #8
                If it were me I would not touch the bottom end unless your rebuilding the motor you dont want to disturb the bearings. You could use new ARP bolts on the heads if your going to do a heads and cam swap. But id leave the bottom end be. Pull it out and do it right!

                Comment


                • #9
                  it will be done very soon

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by WMCCjames View Post
                    I keep forgetting how much of a pain in the ass it is for your 4thgen guys to remove a motor.

                    Depending on exhaust setup, Broken and I can get one out in less than 1.5 hours. Without a hoist/
                    Yes the rod ends should be resized with the bolt that are planned on being used but I have not seen many people do it. Haven't really heard of many issues though

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The rod ends don't need to be resized because they're cracked caps. ARP rod bolts can distort the bolt holes enough to cause bearing failure, which is why I recommended using the Katech bolts.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X