I'll have 275s up front, and 295 in the rear. i can't run that small out back, it looks too weird to me lol. If i could i'd do 315s but the tire i want only comes in 295 for 18s.
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Well I went over the rules again and it looks like they were changed to allow replacement of the cover, so I will be running one with the support bolts. I've also been reading about the solid pinion spacers and I'll probably give that a go as well.1994 Z28 - 2002 M3 - 2015 1.0T Mileage Accumulator
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Ive never run a 295 street tire but that would probably be fine too. Im pretty sure Kolin had 315 nt05s on his.Originally posted by formula218 View PostI'll have 275s up front, and 295 in the rear. i can't run that small out back, it looks too weird to me lol. If i could i'd do 315s but the tire i want only comes in 295 for 18s.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

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Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]62663[/ATTACH]
That is so bad ass!2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 (Tang)
Mods: Fikse Profil 10, GTP stage 2 heads, TR227 cam, Kooks 1 3/4 headers with ORY, Corsa catback, SLP Blackwing lid, SLP smooth bellows, Thunder Racing CNC ported stock throttle body, BG Ram Air, GM 4.10's in 10 bolt, B&M Ripper shifter, ATI 25% UD Super Damper, BMR Suspension, Tuned by Dr. Phil
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Certain Fomoco products use the same spline as our f body axels in an 8.8. I am waiting for Ken to do his so I can figure it all out. I think it's the vic but I could be wrong. There is a guy in Ten. That does them for 1200 with your partsOriginally posted by Hugger Z View PostMy 10 bolt lived a long life behind my twin turbo's (548rwhp). The main reason was I kept it on street tires. The tires were my fuse. The one time I broke the rear I chipped a tooth off of the ring gear. This happened because I was doing burnouts to use up my old tires (got new ones the next morning). Tires got hot enough and sticky enough that they broke the ring gear. I had previously had the car to the drag strip, road tripped it, cruised, street raced a bit. NEVER had a problem until I got the tires sticky enough. You will break a 10 bolt the first time it gets decent traction if you are not careful. I honestly don't think it would survive drifting given my experience with extended burnouts (my driveway is 1/8 mile and I repaved it a LOT).
I do have the makings for one of those 8.8 swaps. Just haven't gotten around to piecing it together. I have a donor 8.8 housing and a donor 10 bolt housing. Total cost so far $0! I would need an 8.8 gearset (probably a 3.50 so it's close to the current 3.42) and Moser makes axles (f-body axle with ford spline). I just have't seen a really good way to mount up the torque arm set-up. I have seen a few neat ideas but a few of them take some ridiculous machining. We'll see. I would eventually like to get that built and into the car. But my 37' Chevy pick-up will probably get more attention for now before I dig back into the Camaro.Last edited by zeeman; February 15th, 2016, 05:33 PM.
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Have a link or contact info?Originally posted by zeeman View PostCertain Fomoco products use the same spline as our f body axels in an 8.8. I am waiting for Ken to do his so I can figure it all out. I think it's the vic but I could be wrong. There is a guy in Ten. That does them for 1200 with your parts
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when you say gussets might be a good idea, what do you mean? do they make a kit for our cars? or just use some plate steel and bracing the tubes to try and keep everything straight.Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostDrag radials are a good thing for keeping that axle alive in an autocross setting as long as he's not he-man driving it with john force drifts around every corner. Ive always understood Brad to be an autocross guy but if thats not the case then my advice will be different.
10 bolts dont like shock loading thats really all there is to it. I drive my 6 speed car like i stole it (clutch dumps, powershifts etc) and it hasnt broke or even threatened to break. but i have street tires as a fuse and suspension that doesnt allow wheel hop. Do not even think about running a stock torque arm at that power level, like James said any wheel hop at all with 500hp you can kiss a 10 bolt goodbye. A good torque arm, shocks, and some attention to pinion/lca angle goes a *long* way.
I also would not recommend changing the diff out in a 10 bolt. Run it like it is and put that money in a rainy day fund for a better axle. A girdle cover and maybe gussets are the only changes id bother making to a 10 bolt. You can resell them seperately if it ever nukes.sigpic
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I have been running 295's in the rear since 2009 on my car. No issues at Milan on those KDW's. Repalaced them but those are the tires that killed the ring gear when they got too warm doing burnouts.Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostYeah the good thing about a set of 275 street tires is you can drive the thing like you stole it and it should be fine. Provided suspension is setup correctly. Im willing to bet ill be on clutch #4 by the time my 10 bolt gives. (Currently on #3)
Yup, you were lucky. My best 60' was a 1.9 on my 295 street tires and never had an issue. If your tires had hooked you most likely would've blown something.Originally posted by formula218 View PostSounds like it'll definitely be staying on street tires till it's swapped out then. I ran it at the track in the fall with drag radials that were on their last leg, I was only getting 2.0 60-fts with them, Sounds like it's a good thing lol.
Good to know, will have to keep an eye out for more details there.Originally posted by zeeman View PostCertain Fomoco products use the same spline as our f body axels in an 8.8. I am waiting for Ken to do his so I can figure it all out. I think it's the vic but I could be wrong. There is a guy in Ten. That does them for 1200 with your partsMy Toys: Hugger Orange 1999 Z28 6-Spd Twin Turbo
1937 Chevy Extended Cab Pick-up (One of a kind)
Future Toy: Orange Ultima GTR or SLC
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