Power limit of modded 10 bolt

[formula218]

I'm in favor of just pulling the 10-bolt and finding a used upgraded one, i just wanted to make sure that I wasn't going to be well within the limits of a 10 bolt. I don't plan to replace it till this breaks, so i'll be spraying and praying till then lol. I don't really know much about rear ends, or the differences between them all so i don't have much preference on what one i'll get. I just want to beat the crap out of it with peace of mind, sounds like that will never happen with a 10 bolt. And to be honest the car might go auto some day too.

sounds like i'll just get a good street tire (probably 295 NT05s) and practice my throttle control for this summer and skip a new set of DRs lol.

[landstuhltaylor]

I sold my last rear end to a guy who ended up beating the crap of it and later told me it lasted longer than any 10 bolt he had ever had, apparently he has gone through a ton of used ones. The odd part to me was that it was a 4.10 gear and always used in a manual car. Lasted ~50k from what I gather and saw quite a few launches on DRs, and I know I personally wheel hopped the shit out of it in reverse. You really never know what they are going to do.

That said when the car goes into CP it's just getting a 9 with an aluminum center. Plenty strong and as light as I can get it.

[JoeliusZ28]

I know this is probably directed at the OP but to play devil's advocate, finding a used 9" or 12 bolt for $2k that is fully functional, has the right gears already, has the desired differential (most at this price have a spool), is quiet, and doesn't require another $1-200 to ship (assuming the seller is even willing) seems to be a pretty tall order from my experience. Even more so if there are any other criteria involved.

All that said, I think everyone who does it knows it's a gamble. Either pay now or take the chance you'll pay later. For me, even though I may end up overall paying more if I have to upgrade eventually, I need a rear end now and at least this will buy me some time before having to come up with $2-3k. And you never know, it just might work out. It wouldn't be the first time.

This is my experience. The 9" and D60s on the used market are almost never setup the way i'd want them to be. And the D60 i want is practically 4 grand... I'd rather add an entire chevy truck to my stable for that price.

[WMCCjames]

Some 10 bolts pop in a 13 second car, other drive them deep into the 11's without trouble. It's to big of a gamble to say at what power level they will pop at. I went the route of beefing up a 10 bolt many years ago cause I couldn't justify spending $3K for a 9 inch. It was a total waste of time and money. It popped at the first sign of wheel hop. I now have a 9 inch rear. Best money spent!

[formula218]

I know that you can't pin point a power limit as there are so many factors that go into it, but it sounds like stock power brakes them so i'll stick with my previous plan of throwing the cover on and enjoying it till it goes and then using my x-mas bonus to try and find a used upgrade. A couple friends where trying to convince me that i should just throw a eaton into the 10 bolt but to me it seem like a waste of money. At the current power level it MIGHT be okay, but i won't have any peace of mind with it.

I'd imagine with me only planning on 500-600hp as a long term goal and not doing a ton of track dig racing i wouldn't need too crazy of a rear end. It's just a 5.3 with some nitrous, and a turbo in a couple years so it shouldn't be too powerful.

[BlackJesus]

I know that you can't pin point a power limit as there are so many factors that go into it, but it sounds like stock power brakes them so i'll stick with my previous plan of throwing the cover on and enjoying it till it goes and then using my x-mas bonus to try and find a used upgrade. A couple friends where trying to convince me that i should just throw a eaton into the 10 bolt but to me it seem like a waste of money. At the current power level it MIGHT be okay, but i won't have any peace of mind with it.

I'd imagine with me only planning on 500-600hp as a long term goal and not doing a ton of track dig racing i wouldn't need too crazy of a rear end. It's just a 5.3 with some nitrous, and a turbo in a couple years so it shouldn't be too powerful.

I've worn out an Auburn in a 10 bolt going 11's. It didn't actually break but it would 1 wheel and never hook at the track anymore.

Also built an 8.8 that lasted a while going high 10's with a stock ford diff in it. Sold the 8.8 before it broke.

Now have a spooled 9" with basically every option. Back braced, alum center section, 35 spline axles, Ect. Pieced it together myself and have right around 2K into it. Could build one with a Wavetrac if you shopped around for around $2500 I'd bet.

A 10 bolt isn't going to live with drag radials and a stick at 400 hp let alone 500-600hp. Some guys get lucky but in the end its about as good as flushing cash down the toilet.

[farmington]

I used Nitto 555r DR's for the last 4 years and mine is still going strong and I do beat on the car. Always gets a nice chirp on the 1-2 shift. Actually broke something in the trans and rear is still good. Got some racestars with M/T 275-60-15 DR's going on in the spring with a Yank SS3600 converter, so I guess I'll see how "good" it is.
The Nitto DR's don't dead hook but are better than street tires. I went with them to soften the hit to the rear tires.

[formula218]

I've worn out an Auburn in a 10 bolt going 11's. It didn't actually break but it would 1 wheel and never hook at the track anymore.

Also built an 8.8 that lasted a while going high 10's with a stock ford diff in it. Sold the 8.8 before it broke.

Now have a spooled 9" with basically every option. Back braced, alum center section, 35 spline axles, Ect. Pieced it together myself and have right around 2K into it. Could build one with a Wavetrac if you shopped around for around $2500 I'd bet.

A 10 bolt isn't going to live with drag radials and a stick at 400 hp let alone 500-600hp. Some guys get lucky but in the end its about as good as flushing cash down the toilet.

I'll be looking to spend right around that $2000-2500 mark, i'll make sure i check with you for any deals when the time comes lol. I'll probably find a 4l80 once my t56 shits the bed too. It'll just be a stock 5.3 with a 150 or 200 shot this year.

I used Nitto 555r DR's for the last 4 years and mine is still going strong and I do beat on the car. Always gets a nice chirp on the 1-2 shift. Actually broke something in the trans and rear is still good. Got some racestars with M/T 275-60-15 DR's going on in the spring with a Yank SS3600 converter, so I guess I'll see how "good" it is.
The Nitto DR's don't dead hook but are better than street tires. I went with them to soften the hit to the rear tires.

That's one of the reasons i was leaning towards them. I had the NT05 before and loved it, so the 555 seemed like a logical step. I had a set of MT ET streets on stock 16s but i traded them away because i was scared they'd kill the 10 bolt right away lol

[BlackJesus]

I used Nitto 555r DR's for the last 4 years and mine is still going strong and I do beat on the car. Always gets a nice chirp on the 1-2 shift. Actually broke something in the trans and rear is still good. Got some racestars with M/T 275-60-15 DR's going on in the spring with a Yank SS3600 converter, so I guess I'll see how "good" it is.
The Nitto DR's don't dead hook but are better than street tires. I went with them to soften the hit to the rear tires.

You have an auto. Thats all that needs to be said about that.

[JoeliusZ28]

Drag radials are a good thing for keeping that axle alive in an autocross setting as long as he's not he-man driving it with john force drifts around every corner. Ive always understood Brad to be an autocross guy but if thats not the case then my advice will be different.

10 bolts dont like shock loading thats really all there is to it. I drive my 6 speed car like i stole it (clutch dumps, powershifts etc) and it hasnt broke or even threatened to break. but i have street tires as a fuse and suspension that doesnt allow wheel hop. Do not even think about running a stock torque arm at that power level, like James said any wheel hop at all with 500hp you can kiss a 10 bolt goodbye. A good torque arm, shocks, and some attention to pinion/lca angle goes a *long* way.

I also would not recommend changing the diff out in a 10 bolt. Run it like it is and put that money in a rainy day fund for a better axle. A girdle cover and maybe gussets are the only changes id bother making to a 10 bolt. You can resell them seperately if it ever nukes.

[formula218]

Not doing much auto-X any more because they quit doing them in lansing Mostly street fun and drag racing now. I might try drifting it this yeas but that'll be on junk tires most likely. When i do the rear end i'll do a TA too. I've already got Bilstien struts, and founders LCAs (with relocation brackets going in this spring).

Before this car i had a GTP that made almost 400whp with a mostly stock trans, so i know all about avoiding and letting out if you get wheel hop lol.

[Lucky SOB]

Kolin's SS puts 560 to the wheels and the stock 10 bolt (literally completely stock, no girdle, just some rustoleum paint) held for 2 years until this past summer when he cracked the posi

[Hugger Z]

My 10 bolt lived a long life behind my twin turbo's (548rwhp). The main reason was I kept it on street tires. The tires were my fuse. The one time I broke the rear I chipped a tooth off of the ring gear. This happened because I was doing burnouts to use up my old tires (got new ones the next morning). Tires got hot enough and sticky enough that they broke the ring gear. I had previously had the car to the drag strip, road tripped it, cruised, street raced a bit. NEVER had a problem until I got the tires sticky enough. You will break a 10 bolt the first time it gets decent traction if you are not careful. I honestly don't think it would survive drifting given my experience with extended burnouts (my driveway is 1/8 mile and I repaved it a LOT).

I do have the makings for one of those 8.8 swaps. Just haven't gotten around to piecing it together. I have a donor 8.8 housing and a donor 10 bolt housing. Total cost so far $0! I would need an 8.8 gearset (probably a 3.50 so it's close to the current 3.42) and Moser makes axles (f-body axle with ford spline). I just have't seen a really good way to mount up the torque arm set-up. I have seen a few neat ideas but a few of them take some ridiculous machining. We'll see. I would eventually like to get that built and into the car. But my 37' Chevy pick-up will probably get more attention for now before I dig back into the Camaro.

[formula218]

Sounds like it'll definitely be staying on street tires till it's swapped out then. I ran it at the track in the fall with drag radials that were on their last leg, I was only getting 2.0 60-fts with them, Sounds like it's a good thing lol.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yeah the good thing about a set of 275 street tires is you can drive the thing like you stole it and it should be fine. Provided suspension is setup correctly. Im willing to bet ill be on clutch #4 by the time my 10 bolt gives. (Currently on #3)