trans issues after LS swap

[formula218]

i did a LS swap into my '94 firebird and i'm having some issues with the clutch not disengaging. it's a LT1 T56 that's converted to a LS1 T56 (front plate, bell housing, input, race, bearing), it's got a brand new OEM slave and master, TICK bleeder, and McLeod Clutch Line.


it goes into all the gears but it's very hard, you almost have to slam it into place. The clutch pedal sits lower than the gas and brake peddles.


do i need LS1 peddles? we're almost positive there is no air in it, we've done millions of pump pump hold bleeds, used a mity vac, and used a nematic brake bleeder on it.

[1BADAIR]

what clutch

[formula218]

Center force


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[formula218]

It was used, it came out of a friend's (sspdmon/Jeff) Camaro.


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[1BADAIR]

Did you measure the clutch height?

[formula218]

no, i assumed since it had came from another LS/T56 that it would be fine with my LS/T56.

[Boost Addict]

It's normal for a car with a Tick master for the clutch to sit slightly lower than the brake pedal. Is the flywheel from the same vehicle the clutch came out of?

[formula218]

i have an OEM master, just tbe remote bleeder is TICK.

Yes, the clutch and flywheel combo worked together in SSPDMON's Camaro.

[1BADAIR]

the stack height matters as much as clutch height. bell housing, front plate, ect

[formula218]

but if it worked in another F-body with the same engine/trans shouldn't the height be right?


i talked to Jeff and he said when he had it he remembers it being a little hard to get into gear at higher RPMs, he suggested an adjustable master.

[formula218]

can anyone confirm or deny that the pedals from a LT1 f-body should still work with a LS f-body?

[Boost Addict]

I did the swap. No problems with LT1 pedals

[formula218]

maybe the OEM master isn't strong enough for the clutch?

[Nocooler]

Without knowing the air gap - it's hard to know. The clutch might need a shim.

An adjustable won't hurt -but if the air gap is to large its not going to fix it.

Bleed it again - the trick with the tick line is: Open the line and push down on the pedal, close the line and release the pedal. Sometimes the speed bleeder leaks at the threads and sucks air back in. Run the line under the car so you can see the air come out. The pump and hold method doesn't work well.

[formula218]

we've bled it for literal hours. lots of pumping, used a Mity vac, and also a pnumatic bleeder as well. i ordered a TICK master, if this doesn't work then the trans comes back out and we'll measure it to see if it needs shimmed.