Transmission Rebuilders: my trans let me down

[NastyZ]

I finally have a issue that is holding back my car from being drivable. I believe my my throw out bearing went on strike and no longer wants to work for me or master cylinder as I can once the car cools down I can pump the pedal back up. As the pedal will have regular travel to not having any travel and not being able to go into gear at all. So here's my plan of parts:

Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder and speed bleeder
GM slave cylinder and throwout bearing

Now heres where I want to see if there's some advice out there. I am sending my trans to Texas Drivetrain Performance for a stage 3 rebuild. I've called a few big names for T56 transmissions. Prices wise I couldn't find anyone to beat TDP. I want to build the trans and be done with it.

Has as anyone dealt with some any local builders like Detroit Gearbox and such? Also what upgrades did you decide to go with?

[mcalus]

Sorry I can't help you out with any of your questions but if you don't mind me asking how much is TDP charging? Shipping and all. Sorry for the hijack...

People do swear by Detroit Gearbox.

[1BADAIR]

. Most trans shops buy their parts from libertys and d and d which are both local. Rpm in Indiana is one of the best. T56 isn't hard to build yourself....

[JoeliusZ28]

I'm planning on rebuilding my own, but i heard parts are on backorder right now Tremec isn't filling orders. Just what ive heard through the grapevine though, my synchros arent quite bad enough for me to tear it apart yet.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I've had good luck sourcing parts through Cobra Transmission when others couldn't get items in stock. This was with WC T5's though. There was another supplier on the northern west coast that hooked me up on parts for a 261XHD transfer case, but their inventory and prices were great. I'll have to look through my invoices to find the company.

[NastyZ]

TDP is charging me just over $2000 with shipping for their stage 3 build. I was looking at rebuilding myself but I was hoping to do it in the fall after the season of driving the car. I don't have the time to rebuild right now. The cost of a rebuild kit from Tick Performance is the same price of TDP. Gearbox.com seemed to have the best prices for T56 parts.

Detroit Gearbox must be really busy because I haven't heard back from them. I'm still holding off till I can talk to RPM because their T56 Magnum is the price of a built F-body trans of other builders. Kind of confused and not sure what I will do.

[1BADAIR]

$2000 is a lot. Libertys is like $250 for labor . You just pay for parts.

[birdie2000]

Yeah, my trans was under $2k from Libertys and it was mainly so expensive because I needed a couple new gears as well as a new main shaft. I went with the viper mainshaft and still was a little cheaper than that.

[1BADAIR]

The viper shaft and tail is like 600 alone. each gear needed is around $120. I wish i would have given them my old gears when I had them cut mine for faceplating. lol they were brand new. They could have used my worn out syncro ones...

[NastyZ]

$2000 including shipping to and from Texas is expensive? Wow I must've been looking in the wrong place because every where else it's $2800+. I'll look into Liberty.

[birdie2000]

Well, if it includes shipping then I guess it's a little better, just depends on how much is upgraded for that price. But I'd definitely look into Libertys, they should be much cheaper than that if it's just standard wear items that need to be replaced.

[NastyZ]

Here's what they're offering with my stage 3 upgrade:
Stage 1 - $600
-Carbon kevlar synchro rings
-Keys and springs
-Fork pad kit
-Seals


Stage 2 - $850 (highly recommended)
All the above plus
-Billet 1-2 keys
-Billet 3-4 keys
-Bronze 1-2-3-4 fork pads
-Bronze shifter bushing
-Steel 3-4 shift fork


Stage 3 - $1550
All the above plus
-Super duty 31-spline mainshaft conversion
*Stronger than the 30-spline Viper shaft!*
Includes:
-31-spline custom mainshaft
-31-spline slip yoke
-Conversion u-joint
-Tailhousing modifications

I'll be calling Liberty's ,as in Liberty's Gears I'm assuming, tomorrow.

[1BADAIR]

Since it's a 2000 the steel 3-4 is recommended. The billet keys are only really needed in 3-4 but are cheap. Pads are only needed for 1-4(two sets). Carbon synchro is the only thing you can buy now. If you have 3rd or 4 th gear issues now is where it costs some money. The alum fork causes it and takes out 3rd gear and or 4th which is the input shaft. Reverse blocker can be flipped over