4l60e removal help needed

[zeeman]

Not physically, just any hints to make things easier. For instance, how do you get to the 2 top bell housing bolts? From above or below? What about the dip stick tube? remove it befor trying to move the trans back? I am going to try and only remove enough to just slide it back to swap out the torque converter.
So far the torque arm , drive shaft , starter, exhaust bracket, inspection cover, shift linkage, speedo wire and torque converter bolts are off.
Tomorrow bell housing bolts, cross member, transmission lines, dipstick tube..... anything else?

So when I install the new converter, fill it first? How far?
Oh I am waiting for a precision industries 245mm billet 3000 stall triple disk, from Detroit gear.

[jderry]

Not physically, just any hints to make things easier. For instance, how do you get to the 2 top bell housing bolts? From above or below? What about the dip stick tube? remove it befor trying to move the trans back? I am going to try and only remove enough to just slide it back to swap out the torque converter.
So far the torque arm , drive shaft , starter, exhaust bracket, inspection cover, shift linkage, speedo wire and torque converter bolts are off.
Tomorrow bell housing bolts, cross member, transmission lines, dipstick tube..... anything else?

So when I install the new converter, fill it first? How far?
Oh I am waiting for a precision industries 245mm billet 3000 stall triple disk, from Detroit gear.

I get everything from the bottom side.
I use a long extension and an impact to take them out, electric impact to put them in.
Before I did AN lines, I would drop the trans some to get better access to the lines and electrical connectors.
Just don't bend them!
Be careful not to round the fittings off either, use a line wrench.


The dipstick tube will just slide out once everything is unbolted.
fill the converter as much as you can without it dumping any out.

[c0ncEpT]

Remove the crossmember and let the trans hang. Get a few long extensions and you an access them pretty easily from the tailshaft area. With the dipstick you just unbolt the bracket and it will slide out as you lower the trans.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

If you have poly mounts, you may need to drop the entire k-member to allow enough room for the top bolts

[zeeman]

Couldn't I just remove the bolts from the poly motor mounts?

[c0ncEpT]

Couldn't I just remove the bolts from the poly motor mounts?

It will hang down enough with poly mounts. No need to remove the bolts. Solid mounts on the other hand are a different story.

[zeeman]

Ok. Good enough.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I couldn't get the upper bolts on mine, had to remove the rear k member bolts and loosen the front 4.

This was on my 98 with the LQ4 though, with Energy Suspension mounts.

[c0ncEpT]

I couldn't get the upper bolts on mine, had to remove the rear k member bolts and loosen the front 4.

This was on my 98 with the LQ4 though, with Energy Suspension mounts.

I had no issues removing them on the timebomb. LS2 with energy mounts. Let the trans hang down and get a bunch of extensions with a swivel at the end.

[jderry]

I had no issues removing them on the timebomb. LS2 with energy mounts. Let the trans hang down and get a bunch of extensions with a swivel at the end.

Same thing I do every time I have had to pull a 4l60e

[farmington]

This reminds me why I will never r and r a transmission in my garage ever again. LOL

[zeeman]

So I am going to have to pull the exhaust to. Damnit. I had hoped to avoid that.
I really hope that this fixes this car

[c0ncEpT]

This reminds me why I will never r and r a transmission in my garage ever again. LOL

Its honestly not bad at all. I can get the trans on the ground and back up in 1.5 hours now. Once you have a game plan and know what needs to be done you fly through it.

So I am going to have to pull the exhaust to. Damnit. I had hoped to avoid that.
I really hope that this fixes this car

Yes, Exhaust needs to come down. Every car I've ever pulled the 4L60E on has already had headers and they were a breeze to work around. Y-pipe needs to come off tho.

[zeeman]

Yeah, I have headers too. But my Y pipe was a pain in the ass to install without it leaking. Maybee it will be better this time....lol!.

Another hour or two, oh well, no one said it was going to be easy.

[zeeman]

ok trans is out. I am a bit worried about this. As I roll the torque converter there is a definite dragging and a rumble like something grinding. I dont know if it is the trans or the converter at this point. But what I do know is this. this trans has almost 90,000 miles on it. If the converter is screwed up all the debris from it went into the trans. The fluid looks brown, and doesnt smell very good.
So, I have a chance to buy a trans that is fairly fresh, has a couple thousand miles on it from a complete rebuild last year or the year before. The current owner is going LS1 so he is giving me a deal on it. It is a stock rebuild.
The only negatives are. 1) more money 2) No shift kit in the new trans.

How hard is it to do the shift kit with the trans in the car? Can it be salvaged from the old trans or is this a bad idea?