I got a 2000 camaro ss and i had a head gasket issue. so i took the heads off and replaced the gaskets. i used arp head bolts and when i torqued them down i used the specs for stock bolts which is 22lbs then next pass 90 degrees then another pass of 90 degrees. i was wondering if that is going to be a problem. if you have any info on this please let me no. thanks.
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in my honest opinion it could be a problem. I have a couple questions in return to you. did you chase all the threads in the block for the head bolts? if not theres a good chance your torgue specs will be off and on the weaker side anyway you look at it.Originally posted by maroslp View PostI got a 2000 camaro ss and i had a head gasket issue. so i took the heads off and replaced the gaskets. i used arp head bolts and when i torqued them down i used the specs for stock bolts which is 22lbs then next pass 90 degrees then another pass of 90 degrees. i was wondering if that is going to be a problem. if you have any info on this please let me no. thanks.
when it comes to arp I generaly fallow there instructions and not the gm factory specs. another question is did you use and type of lubrication on the head bolt threads? that will also make a difference in clamping pressure.
im sure a couple of the buy will chime in shortly to.
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- December 9th, 2011
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- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
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I've never had a problem with threads on the few LSx engines I have done, but I did blow them out with an air nozzle and to make sure they were clean and was able to hand thread the old bolts until they bottomed out - no sticky spots at all.
IIRC, ARP bolts aren't torque to yield so torque down values will be different. I've always used OEM replacements with coating on the threads and went to OEM spec, the 5.3 I have now will get studs so I'm a bit curious.
Edit: All the ones I have done were drained of fluids so I didn't have to worry about coolant or oil going into the bolt holes
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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Originally posted by masterfab View Postin my honest opinion it could be a problem. I have a couple questions in return to you. did you chase all the threads in the block for the head bolts? if not theres a good chance your torgue specs will be off and on the weaker side anyway you look at it.
when it comes to arp I generaly fallow there instructions and not the gm factory specs. another question is did you use and type of lubrication on the head bolt threads? that will also make a difference in clamping pressure.
im sure a couple of the buy will chime in shortly to.
i threaded the bolts by hand and i cleaned the bolt holes vary good and i used locktite (blue) not the arp lube. what do u suggest i do?
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- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
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Personally I think you over torqued them as those bolts don't stretch.
Did you use OEM gaskets (MLS) ?
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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Post Slut
- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
- Send PM
I don't use copper spray on MLS
As long as you didn't pull the threads...well, I don't know if I'd pull and re-torque. I'd have to look at the ARP specs. As for locktite - what color? I don't use it on heads, but I don't think the medium (blue) wouldn't make a huge difference IMO
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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well now i dont no whats my next step should i just leave them in there and hope all is well or should i correct thisOriginally posted by hoogiesngrinderz View PostI don't use copper spray on MLS
As long as you didn't pull the threads...well, I don't know if I'd pull and re-torque. I'd have to look at the ARP specs. As for locktite - what color? I don't use it on heads, but I don't think the medium (blue) wouldn't make a huge difference IMO
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Re: need some advice
Originally posted by maroslp View Postwell now i dont no whats my next step should i just leave them in there and hope all is well or should i correct this
Well heres the way i look at it. You used a bonding agant for lube on the threads. and you fallowed the factory torque specs on the arp head bolts. And those 2 would worrys me. but theres a chance that you would be ok.
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- December 9th, 2011
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- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
- Send PM
My exact concern.Originally posted by masterfab View PostWell heres the way i look at it. You used a bonding agant for lube on the threads. and you fallowed the factory torque specs on the arp head bolts. And those 2 would worrys me. but theres a chance that you would be ok.
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I'd say run it. The copper spray actually gives you some more tolerance. If it doesn't work, you won't be out head bolts. If you do have a problem, you're out gaskets (less than $100) and maybe a mill on the heads ($50 my cost)
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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Just did head studs on an LS7 and it was only 2 passes, can't remember the torque specs but it wasn't as crazy as the stock specs for the TTY bolts where you have to stretch the bolts.
If it were my car, I'd pull them and torque them to ARP's specs. Not sure if they're reuse-able after how much you torqued them, might want to call ARP. I'd also get new gaskets, being over torqued could cause them to deform I'd think.2000 Trans Am l 1967 Firebird
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Are you using arp moly lube?
If so use this:
First pass 25lbft second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
If using motor oil use this:
First pass 30lbft second pass at 60lbft, and finally a 3rd at 80lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 28lbft.
(Incase you didn't know you have to lube the threads and washers before installing... you must use either arp lube or motor oil. )
Install in this order:
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- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
- Send PM
3 passes on old SBC head bolts (non TTY) didn't require a ton of torque but those gaskets aren't as forgiving as the MLS. That's why I don't recommend coming close to TTY torque/angle specs on APR bolts. ARP bolts hold an incredible amount of force so I wouldn't worry about stretching them. I'd be more concerned about compressing the MLS gaskets too much.Originally posted by Lucky SOB View PostJust did head studs on an LS7 and it was only 2 passes, can't remember the torque specs but it wasn't as crazy as the stock specs for the TTY bolts where you have to stretch the bolts.
If it were my car, I'd pull them and torque them to ARP's specs. Not sure if they're reuse-able after how much you torqued them, might want to call ARP. I'd also get new gaskets, being over torqued could cause them to defom I'd think.
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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