trying to decide what axle to run

[masterfab]

If your going to have to narrow it the 8.8 is probably your best option. There are tons of parts out there and they came in everything.

FYI an 8.8 is nothing like a 9" when it comes to gear installs. They use a standard cast iron housing and do not use a 3rd member.

mikes right. i was thinking about the dodge 8 3/4 sorry those fit nice to but you have alittle more work to do with them.

[t_ank]

well it not to much work to narrow the 8.8

just get it out of a explorer take the long tube out and swap it for the short tube off a donor and weld or hack off 3ins off the long tube and weld all your stuff back on and use the short end axle and drill your chevy lug pattern


this is what ill probably do


but i can run the 8.8 un narrowed and run vette wheels and be golden just have to move the perches 1/4 in outwards

so we will see.

one question tho

if i run disc in the back and if i have drums now will i have to change the master cylinder or something

mikes right. i was thinking about the dodge 8 3/4 sorry those fit nice to but you have alittle more work to do with them.

[t_ank]

sniperpreformance i might want those pretty diamond piston off ya one day lol

[masterfab]

sniperpreformance i might want those pretty diamond piston off ya one day lol

there still here. i would except trades of the same value or close anyways i dont mind taking small hit as long as its someone from this forum.

[masterfab]

well it not to much work to narrow the 8.8

just get it out of a explorer take the long tube out and swap it for the short tube off a donor and weld or hack off 3ins off the long tube and weld all your stuff back on and use the short end axle and drill your chevy lug pattern


this is what ill probably do


but i can run the 8.8 un narrowed and run vette wheels and be golden just have to move the perches 1/4 in outwards

so we will see.

one question tho

if i run disc in the back and if i have drums now will i have to change the master cylinder or something

all you should need is a proportioning valve.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

well it not to much work to narrow the 8.8

just get it out of a explorer take the long tube out and swap it for the short tube off a donor and weld or hack off 3ins off the long tube and weld all your stuff back on and use the short end axle and drill your chevy lug pattern


this is what ill probably do


but i can run the 8.8 un narrowed and run vette wheels and be golden just have to move the perches 1/4 in outwards

so we will see.

one question tho

if i run disc in the back and if i have drums now will i have to change the master cylinder or something

Yup, a disc/disc prop valve (easily found for s-trucks) will make it work. Not sure of the total width after all mods. I know some mopar 8 3/4 rears are really close to the same dimensions though.

[TylerT/AZ28]

make sure the tubes your gonna swap are the same diameter

[masterfab]

yup thats why i started useing the 8 3/4 mopar rears. there strong and theres alot of parts out the for them. heres a picture of my olf LT-1 S-10 that later was swapped to a LS1. this truck has the 8 3/4 rear with drum brakes. they do make disk kits for it. i had the origanal ZR-1 wheels on it with not spacer in the back later i did a 1" spacer in the rear and a 1 3/4 in the front lowered the truck 3". ounce i swap out the lt1 for a ls1 the truck sold with-in 3 days. that truck was ruff but i replaces all the bad metal and painted it.



really close to the frame




couldnt find any pictures of the rear in it. i may have some on a thunb drive at home but its a easy swap.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I want to say some 8 3/4 rears were 54"...am I mistaken?

[masterfab]

I want to say some 8 3/4 rears were 54"...am I mistaken?

they where 51"-59" and some change

S-10 axle widths
2wd 54.5"
4wd 59"
ZR2 63"

dodge 8 3/4

All

8 3/4 E-body

63.40

1971-1974

Year	Axle	(A)	(B)	(C)
1963 - 1972	7 1/4" A-Body	53.200"	43.02"	10.09"
1973 - 1976	7 1/4" A-Body	51.400"	43.02"	10.09"
1973 - 1976	8 1/4" A-Body	51.400"	43.02"	11.69"
All	8 1/4" B-Body	57.800"	47.30"	11.69"
All	8 1/4" C-Body	59.200"	47.30"	11.69"
All	8 1/4" F-Body	54.340"	44.46"	11.69"
All	8 3/4" A-Body	51.400"	43.00"	12.35"
1962 - 1970	8 3/4" B-Body	55.000"	44.00"	12.35"
1971 -1974	8 3/4" B-Body	57.800"	47.30"	12.35"
All	8 3/4" E-Body	56.500"	46.00"	12.35"
1971 -1974	8 3/4" B-Body S.W.	59.200"	47.30"	12.35"
All	9 1/4" B-Body	57.800"	47.30"	11.69"
All	9 1/4" C-Body	59.200"	47.30"	11.69"
1966 - 1970	9 1/4" B-Body	54.936"	44.00"	13.47"
All	9 1/4" E-Body	56.500"	46.30"	13.47"
(A) = Flange to flange.
(B) = Leaf spring centerline to leaf spring centerline..
(C) = Centerline of axle shaft to centerline of rear universal joint.
Illustration & Information from Chrysler Performance Upgrades, by Frank Adkins. Published by CarTech as part of their SA Design series.
Click Here For More Information On This Book

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Looks like that's the info that Travis needs to make a choice for his ride Anything 8 3/4" and above will last behind his setup and then some.

[masterfab]

yes sir and you can find some cheap to if you hold out and look for the right price.

[t_ank]

im picking up a 8.8 3.73 lsd this week and narrowing it

[2002Z4CSS]

The factory 10 bolts are not junk, just the way some people drive causes issues. Sure if you have a lot more that stock engine you may want to up grade. Remember that Bragg-Smith driving school used 4th Gen Camaro SS' all of the time and did not see trans or rear end failures.