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The only time I have ever seen a rod physically break is due to a build error. You most likely have a spun rod bearing. If the rod was broke you would know it, trust me... A spun bearing can have little to no noise (slight tapping), but as it gets worse it will sound like a belt squeal or a chirping. Causes of a spun rod bearing can range from build error, poor tolerancing, poor oiling, wrong oil viscosity, stretched rod bolts.
If it is a rod bearing, plan on some cost in machine work, new rods, *probably* a new crank.
if its a spun bearing the car should start up and idle just fine. my old motor spun a bearing and would run and idle just fine.. sounds like you have something else going on. pop the valve covers and check to make sure nothing is broke there..
if its a spun bearing the car should start up and idle just fine. my old motor spun a bearing and would run and idle just fine.. sounds like you have something else going on. pop the valve covers and check to make sure nothing is broke there..
Great point. Not running correctly is pointing tward valve events. Are you running double springs?
nope just comp 918s. i guess pulling the valve covers is easy enough and a good start. maybe tomorrow. there is no squealing going on at all and if i can keep the car running the oil psi is good but it sure sounds like its coming from lower. if i have a broken spring, the valve dropped right, and i probably ruined my cylinder wall and piston?
maybe after i pull the covers and find nothing i can get a video? do i dare start it again, probably not but damage has already been done im sure
Last edited by Formula Z; January 1st, 2012, 05:08 PM.
i thought you said it sounded like it was the bottom side of the engine? not up top? thats what i checked on my car first, was my valve springs, rocker arms and push rods. takes an hour
98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater
I didn't say nothing about pauls. Motor building skills... But people DO MAKE errors. I know Paul I've meet him more than once.
I know people who have motors from him. Example Charlie Harris that we both know has a 632 ford from Paul and that ***** runs and doesn't have problems. I'm not being rude at all about Paul so don't get so jumpy over it.
But in my opinion it sounds more like valve train problems. Than bottom end. Why don't you run double springs? What kinda rpms do you run?
If you broke a spring theres a very good chance the valve dropped. Ive only seen it a few times where people caught it real early and it actually stayed up out of the pistons way.... if that happened to me, id be finding another car and immediately driving to the closest place that sells lottery tickets, lol.
Did it happen suddenly, or did it start quiet and keeps getting louder? Was driveability immediately affected, or was it gradually getting worse?
918's had a bad rap for a long time, they were supposedly fixed. But I didnt risk it and went with something else just incase. Running PAC 1518's here.
Only takes a few minutes to pull the covers, might as well start there, never know what you may find. I would drain the oil and cut the filter as lary suggested, look for hunks of metal or a gold sheen in the oil.
Why don't you run double springs? What kinda rpms do you run?
Not necessarily for what he is running. IIRC, his cam is sub 230 durration and sub .600 lift (224 or 228 I thought?). No reason to shell out the big bucks for doubles, a quality beehive will do, and be less mass in the valvetrain.
I didn't realize his cam was that small. Not that it's that small.
I would really hope for mikes sake that that didn't happen. And dropping a valve like that on the piston should effect power immediately and prolly make a hell of a noise. Hopefully it didn't hurt the head to bad
my cam is a 230/230 .587 112lsa. it happened quick and caused the car to stall almost immediately but like i said i started it and got it home, which probably caused more problems. my rev limiter is set at 6900 and i did hit it once when i had it out yesterday. damn nittos spin easily when its 35-40 degrees out. car was at operating temps although and ive hit the limiter a few times before this.
didnt mean to get defensive about paul. i just hate pointing fingers before having any eveidence. i stand behind my builder and he will do the same for me if its his fault. kinda hard to blame him now although with 5000 plus miles on the engine, a dyno tune, and passes at the track. i should have just left the damn thing in the garage until spring
thanks for all the input guys, its much appreciated
it did flash because i remember seeing it. its not currently on and wasnt when limping it home. i will be pulling valve covers tomorrow morning and taking a look
anyways whats the best place, brand, and price for what i may need, like a crank and rods? im seriously hoping my cylinder walls are not trash. guess i better just try to calm down until i see what i find tomorrow
anyways whats the best place, brand, and price for what i may need, like a crank and rods? im seriously hoping my cylinder walls are not trash. guess i better just try to calm down until i see what i find tomorrow
Coming from the guy that's probably broken more motors than anyone around here, you're probably best off finding a stock short block for sale. that is if you get your engine out and it's totally $hit f*cked and hosed. Most people look at it as an opportunity to upgrade. other look at it as "I don't have the cash to dump in this, what's the cheapest route"..... If you honestly need a crank, I think I could come up with 1 or 2 from old stock short blocks I've purchased and torn apart. they probably need to be polished, but nothing serious. everything i've bought for engines were running take outs. Rods, probably some inexpensive scat H beams would suffice. I think I paid like 4 or 500 for my rods, and pistons, who knows, some cheap shelf stock mahles would be your least expensive route.
Then to add on for machine work if you do in fact end up building another motor. Best of luck to you! I've blown a motor up, tore it apart the same afternoon and had another block machined and reassembled and running car again in 5 days. (4 of the days were waiting for machine shop work)
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