tci 3500 street fighter cam recommendations????

[Formula Z]

if it says 280 to 310 duration that means my measily 228/230 .587 comp cam isnt going to be big enough or is it. 3500 is 3500 right if its for an ls1 4l60e. i dont understand

[farmington]

The 280 to 310 is ADVERTISED duration. The 228 is duration at .050 lift. Your cam definitely falls inside of the parameters of the converter manufacturer. That cam and converter combo should work fantastically together. Rip it !

[Fbomb]

Sounds like a nice converter for your setup. My 230/230 at .05 starts to build power at around 2500, yours should start a little lower, so you'll be right in your powerband at 3500.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

that converter will be fine for you application, although I haven't personally heard much good from TCI's stuff.

[c0ncEpT]

although I haven't personally heard much good from TCI's stuff.

Same here. I have heard they are a very loose converter compared to others of the same stall speed.

Thats just what I have heard tho. No personal experience.

[Formula Z]

loose meaning what? sorry first stall here lol. good or bad for street?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

looser converters typically stall higher than advertised and they feel more like the car is slipping when driving around. meaning the car requires a few more rpms before it gets moving. I would think it would be perfectly fine for you but its all relative to the driver.

[Ridings Automatics]

An opinion!

As a converter builder, 3600 is the stall speed where I start the LSX. They work great in stock to bolt on's to head/cam packages. The only way to tell what the converter is about is to cut it in two and look, but a quick visual way is this: Put the converter on a bench with the converter hub facing up, then take a look at the last row of fins (pointing at your stomach with the hub up). Think of a tach needle and tell me is the needle in the high rpm range or low rpm range.

[ThreeHonks]

As a converter builder, 3600 is the stall speed where I start the LSX. They work great in stock to bolt on's to head/cam packages. The only way to tell what the converter is about is to cut it in two and look, but a quick visual way is this: Put the converter on a bench with the converter hub facing up, then take a look at the last row of fins (pointing at your stomach with the hub up). Think of a tach needle and tell me is the needle in the high rpm range or low rpm range.

does this test to see if it is positive or negative fin angle?

[Ridings Automatics]

TCI builds a decent off the shelf converter, but there are 2 things i really don't care for; Their crappy lock up disc friction and their poor choice of stator angles. Their stator choice makes the converter feel like a 2 dollar whore (given two converters set at the same stall speed) driving around vs having the stall speed and street manners driving around. That is just an opinion though.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

TCI builds a decent off the shelf converter, but there are 2 things i really don't care for; Their crappy lock up disc friction and their poor choice of stator angles. Their stator choice makes the converter feel like a 2 dollar whore (given two converters set at the same stall speed) driving around vs having the stall speed and street manners driving around. That is just an opinion though.

may be an opinion but I'm sure it means much more to the OP than someone like myself who has limited experience

[Ridings Automatics]

does this test to see if it is positive or negative fin angle?

LOL. Yes, he can be taught! I didn't think you were listening to me when i showed you that. Good job!