Tick master cylinder installed (is it adjusted correctly?)

[GoHard]

I just had a new adjustable tick master cylinder installed by Vector. I just want to be 100% sure it's adjusted correctly. Does anyone have one installed that knows how I can tell if it's right? So far, I've shifted at redline 1st-4th without any problem. But when I start the car in neutral and try to shift to 1st it takes some force, and it's stiff. Per tick's instructons it's supposed to be adjusted to the point where it goes into 1st from neutral, smoothly. I'm trying to avoid over adjusting it though....any thought?

[1BADAIR]

jack it up and try will the clutch pushed in or put it in first gear on level grround and rev it quickly to like 5000 rpm and see if it moves. you can also bump the clutch while accellerating to see how much free travel is at the top of the pedal

[GoHard]

Forgot to mention that I did test it out by revving to the limit in 1st with the clutch pressed all the way down and it didn't move.

How would the 3rd way you mentioned be done exactly? I know it has about 1inch of free play at the top.

[1BADAIR]

1 inch from the top is good.
an adjustable master wont fix the real issue with after market clutches though. the slave height is the real issue.
To me it sounds like it is adjusted correctly

[GoHard]

Everything else is still stock I believe, car had only 20k miles when I bought with just a slp lid and catback. I know if the the master isn't adjusted right it can cause problems with the slave and clutch so I'm trying to really be 100% on this one! My trans acts so crazy all the time idk what's up with it, just all different types of clunks, vibrating, etc.

[GoHard]

Ok I'm getting a sticky and spongy clutch pedal after some high rpm shifts now. Tick adjustment or something else? The clutch fluid still looks clear. The pedal feels funny right after going wot and then going into a gear at low rpm. Could be normal but I know when I had the stock hydraluics the clutch would never act funny as long as the fluid was clear.

[steddy]

I'll just throw this out there: would higher temp fluid be available?

[Fbomb]

I'll just throw this out there: would higher temp fluid be available?

DOT4, which is what I have, but if the master was replaced it should've been switched over anyway when they had to bleed it. But it was done at a shop so...

But it sounds like you still have the stock line with the restrictor.

[1BADAIR]

tick has its own line. either the clutch is slippin or the clutch line isnt under the heat sheild/ getting hot

[GoHard]

I looked at the line coming from under the reservoir and right where it curves it's pretty close to the header.

[GoHard]

I don't think the clutch is slipping. I tried to get it to slip after some aggressive shifts and in 5th/6th gear itll accelerate normally still

[GoHard]

Some new conditions: I started her up today let it run for 10 mins and it was VERY hard to put it in gear. Unless I put a lot of force it wouldn't go into any gear (I couldn't force in, don't want to damage anything) but after a lot of tries of releasing and pressing the clutch it finally slid into gear. Very notchy when shifting while the trans is cold too.

[Fbomb]

Probably need to bleed it or add fluid.

[GoHard]

Probably need to bleed it or add fluid.

They bled the whole system when it was installed and I've swapped out the fluid in the reservoir just last night! I'll go check real quick.

[GoHard]

Fluid level was ok but there was a few black tarish" like spots floating in there? Probably didn't get bled completely?