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  • T56's

    So what's there to know about T56's. From what I heard they are pretty indestructible for a mild car. The final gear looks to be .5:1 which is crazy so I was thinking a T56 with 4.10's would really wake my car up vs 700R4 with 3.27's. (long term goal)

    What are these things going for in good / rebuilt condition?

    Any different models of them that have diff ratios, strengths, weakness etc?

    Are they a hyd clutch and what kind of assemby would I need for a thirdgen swap (James you should know this?)

  • #2
    I run a T56 with 4.10's and it's a wild ride, I promise you that! I absolutely love it! cruise around 2,000 at 75 mph.

    Good for? Power wise? They hold at least 5-600, and if you upgrade the shift forks, cryo parts, etc, they will hold 800 I'd say. Some places will upgrade them further to hold 1000.

    In 93, the 6th gear was like a .67:1 not a .5:1 . Also there are other models with a few different first gear ratios. If you're looking for one, I would def. get the .5:1!

    Yes they are a hydraulic clutch set up, you can find the entire swap parts, including master cyl., etc for 1200-1500 I think???
    2010 Yukon Denali
    1999 Hugger Orange SS M6 - "M6 HOSS"

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    • #3
      Originally posted by shiftinda93z
      I run a T56 with 4.10's and it's a wild ride, I promise you that! I absolutely love it! cruise around 2,000 at 75 mph.

      Good for? Power wise? They hold at least 5-600, and if you upgrade the shift forks, cryo parts, etc, they will hold 800 I'd say. Some places will upgrade them further to hold 1000.

      In 93, the 6th gear was like a .67:1 not a .5:1 . Also there are other models with a few different first gear ratios. If you're looking for one, I would def. get the .5:1!

      Yes they are a hydraulic clutch set up, you can find the entire swap parts, including master cyl., etc for 1200-1500 I think???

      Thats awesome, I cant believe id knock down better mileage with 4.10s and a T56 then my 3.27s. Plus the car would be a rocket from a stop!

      Anyone else got some input?

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      • #4
        Everything said here is true.
        A good trans. Worth the money.

        Replace the hydraulics yourself. Stock hydraulics are terrible at best.

        Swap kits are worth it. They have everything you need.

        SpeedDetroit Speedshop <Owner> Detroit's Only True Grassroots Speedshop
        http://gasfed.blogspot.com/
        Originally posted by KuruptWS6spd
        And yes my box is ALWAYS this clean

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        • #5
          ive looked into it... for a 3rd gen i guess its a pretty easy swap specially if you start out with a stick even so going from an auto to stick isnt that hard... ive priced them for a full swap... pedals clutch eveything and i found most to be in the 1500-2000 range for everything you need to install it... the only custom piece you would really need is the trans mount itself which i know of a few vendors that sell them for like 75-125 bucks... not so sure about the drive shaft but if you find a complete setup outta a junkyard like i was looking for im sure you could grab the drive shaft too... deff a good idea for the power and gas millage...
          Originally posted by Frank The Tank
          Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

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          • #6
            Are fourth gen auto and manual driveshafts the same? if so then the thirdgen driveshaft would work because I believe 3rd and 4th gen shafts interchange in length.

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            • #7
              length is all the same im just not sure of the yoke itself... i know mine is a different spline count than a 700r4 still the same length though im sure a yoke itself wouldnt cost that much eaither might as well replace all the bearings while your at it...
              Originally posted by Frank The Tank
              Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

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              • #8
                the trick is finding one... i called atleast 15 junkyards before i tracked a complete setup down... and he knew there was no one else around with it... what else came with a t-56 in a GM vehical i know vettes did but besides that i cant think of anything vipers and stangs had them but to get a adapter to make it work wouldnt be worth it...
                Originally posted by Frank The Tank
                Took the restrictor plate off to give the Red Dragon a little more juice. But it's not exactly street legal, so keep it on the down low.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Insomnya3AM
                  Everything said here is true.
                  A good trans. Worth the money.

                  Replace the hydraulics yourself. Stock hydraulics are terrible at best.

                  Swap kits are worth it. They have everything you need.
                  so would the hydraulics have to do with the problem i have with missing gears?
                  -Joel
                  1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                  1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                  WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                  • #10
                    yeah, T56's are a pretty solid trans! upgrade to the forged 3-4 shift fork and you're pretty much golden!

                    the auto and manual 4th gens have the same length driveshafts, 44.5" from seal to center of the u joint!

                    hydraulic clutch, get a 2000 and up model year slave and master cylinder.

                    and i still have my stock aluminum DS if you wanna buy it or need it to "test fit" or anything
                    1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
                    2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
                    2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
                    http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

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                    • #11
                      the Lt1 t56 is different. It has a shorter input shaft and different ratio's
                      Lt1's use a fork style release and ls1 use a slave on the input shaft

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