M6 to Th350 or Th200r4 swap

[mtuggle86]

Im thinking of switching from my t-56 to a th-350 or a th200r4 trans can anyone tell me what is involved with this kind of swap. Im assuming its easier then swapping to the stock a4 considering there not computer controlled. Ive read I need a th350 with a 9 inch tailshaft so I can use the stock DS a torque converter, auto shifter, trans cooler, and trans dipstick are there any other things I will need. Lastly can you just remove the clutch pedal or is it a whole assembly that needs swapping. In the Th-350 or th200r4 how do you adjust your shift points considering its not computer controlled.

Also how much is everything needed for a full T-56 swap with 65k miles and a ls6 clutch with 20k miles on it worth used? Im hoping to not spend much after selling my M6 parts is this crazy? BTW thanks in advance.

[Darren]

Calling Ryan... Threehonks to this thread. Ryan should be able to give you some input I believe he just swapped his car from a manual to a auto.

[mtuggle86]

Calling Ryan... Threehonks to this thread. Ryan should be able to give you some input I believe he just swapped his car from a manual to a auto.

That would be nice to hear from someone who's done it.

[1slo_camaro]

i was bass ackwards! i went from an auto to a M6. and the pedal assembly if i remember corrrectly is the assembly bolted to your fire wall on the inside then your slave resivoir type thing under your brakebooster.

[ThreeHonks]

It is a major pain in the ass. To retrofit a TH-350/400 would be a big pain. you need to do a lot of custom fab for mounts (or buy expensive BMR or UMI ones). I am a perfectionist, so all of the block off plates and mounts I made look very professional/stock. So it took me a little longer than normal. Going an auto is a good move, and if you are mechanically inclined I would go for it

You could use a RMVB and it would make shifting a lot easier. I made my own harness for a 4L60e and pinned it into the PCM along wiht my own VSS so my speedo works. I am wiring in a manual TCC lockup switch as well.

The only reason I did not go with a 400 is becasue I wanted the OD. A 4L60e can be built to handle a decent amount of power, and there are converters available that will fit many peoples needs.

[mtuggle86]

It is a major pain in the ass. To retrofit a TH-350/400 would be a big pain. you need to do a lot of custom fab for mounts (or buy expensive BMR or UMI ones). I am a perfectionist, so all of the block off plates and mounts I made look very professional/stock. So it took me a little longer than normal. Going an auto is a good move, and if you are mechanically inclined I would go for it

You could use a RMVB and it would make shifting a lot easier. I made my own harness for a 4L60e and pinned it into the PCM along wiht my own VSS so my speedo works. I am wiring in a manual TCC lockup switch as well.

The only reason I did not go with a 400 is becasue I wanted the OD. A 4L60e can be built to handle a decent amount of power, and there are converters available that will fit many peoples needs.

I keep hearing the about the reverse manual valve body Im new to auto's can you explain how its different? This is the first I read about the th350 not bolting up easy all I've read about so fare is spacers for the trans mount what about the torque arm and bell housing? BTW I think the 700r4 or th200r4 is needed because of the overdrive do you have any info on those trans?

[Emulsifide]

A reverse valve body means instead of having P-R-N-D-3-2-1 as your shift pattern, it's P-R-N-D-1-2-3. This is done to prevent you from jamming the shifter into neutral while racing.

There's two things you can do about the torque arm. The first is buy a short tunnel brace mounted torque arm. This is the most expensive route to go ($368.99-$398.99). If you go this route, you can purchase a TH350 or TH400 crossmember from UMI for $169.99. Grand total, $538.98-$568.98.

The other option is to buy a torque arm relocation crossmember for the TH350 or TH400 and reuse your transmission mounted torque arm. UMI's relocation crossmembers for the TH350 and TH400 are $239.99. The cool thing about this is that they've made a bunch of mounting holes to adjust the position of your torque arm, so if you haven't gone out and spent a decent amount of money on an adjustable torque arm, there's no need to because of this. Grand total for this route, $239.99.

ThreeHonks, I appreciate self fabrication, but I hardly consider $239.99 expensive for such an important part that probably took you quite a while to make properly. I have no clue what kind of fabrication skills mtuggle86 has, but seems worth it to me to at least buy the crossmember. Making the slave plate and the shifter plate a pretty simple and can be done uber cheap. I just got done finishing up my shifter plate today:

[bri2203]

Are you making a drag car?

If your considering using a 700r4 or 200r4.... I think it would be easiest to just have a 4l60e built. But if you hoping to do 10s I would suggest something different

A few months ago we put a 4l60e in a 77 corvette but everyone has there own opnion on whether the 200r4 700r4 or 4l60e is better.
From my research... in stock form the 700r4 is stronger than a 200r4. But grand nationals are running 10s with built 200r4s.
My car has a th350 and eventuall I want to add a gear vendors unit or installed a 700r4 or 200r4 and I can use my stock driveshaft.

[mtuggle86]

Are you making a drag car?

If your considering using a 700r4 or 200r4.... I think it would be easiest to just have a 4l60e built. But if you hoping to do 10s I would suggest something different

A few months ago we put a 4l60e in a 77 corvette but everyone has there own opnion on whether the 200r4 700r4 or 4l60e is better.
From my research... in stock form the 700r4 is stronger than a 200r4. But grand nationals are running 10s with built 200r4s.
My car has a th350 and eventuall I want to add a gear vendors unit or installed a 700r4 or 200r4 and I can use my stock driveshaft.

Well the car is a street car mostly but in the future I plan to take it to the track alot more. I have 3 motives for wanting to swap to an auto #1 The cost of a performance clutch kit all new hydraulics and changing the rear end in a an M6 car I know the 10 bolt can break behind a stalled a4 to but for my car I think the stock rear would be fine. #2 Il be honest im not the best driver I worry about grabbing the wrong gear at the track one day and mechanically overreving it. #3 with my mods on my car right now I believe switching to a stalled auto would perform very well at the track and on the street. 11's would be my goal for now btw just a fun street strip car.

From what Ive read the 4l60e is rather expensive to build and weak along with having to swap everything for the wiring harness and having to reprogram the computer so I figured Id look at these transmissions. Im thinking since my car is still street driven the th350 will just be to much without overdrive. Are the 200r4 and 700r4 worth looking at or would the 4l60e even with its faults prob still be the best choice.

If anyone is in a stalled a4 car looking to go to an m6 trans Im open to discuss swapping them

[JoeliusZ28]

700r4 is a mechanical 4L60e. No difference in strength.

Im always on the "go big or go home" end of this subject. TH350/400 ftw. If you want you can pickup that one todd is giving away on this board... im probably not going to have time for it.

[mtuggle86]

700r4 is a mechanical 4L60e. No difference in strength.

Im always on the "go big or go home" end of this subject. TH350/400 ftw. If you want you can pickup that one todd is giving away on this board... im probably not going to have time for it.

Is it a good trans? The only reason I was thinking about the 700r4 was theres a lightly built one on Craigslist that just had a rebuild for 700. Plus I was hoping I could get around running a different wiring harness through the car for a 4l60e.

[JoeliusZ28]

that would be the benefit of running one. IMO mechanical trans always seem to operate better too. On the downside, shift points and firmness.... and calibration parameters in general are not adjusted nearly as easy

[mtuggle86]

that would be the benefit of running one. IMO mechanical trans always seem to operate better too. On the downside, shift points and firmness.... and calibration parameters in general are not adjusted nearly as easy

I was wondering about that How would my shift point be adjusted in a 700r4 trans considering I have a cam im assuming the factory shift point would be way off what I need. Also anyone know if the VSS will work with a 700r4

[JoeliusZ28]

im really not sure, im sure someone here could answer that. i think earlier transmissions were controlled by springs that could be swapped.

[1BADAIR]

springs/weights in the govenor control WOt upshifts