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94' 4l60e to t-56 conversion?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
    the consul is between the seats. the steering column is separate. It is a bigger job than 1st meets the eye.
    Lol yea that was an oppsy i meant to say steering column but i typed it out wrong. I know how hard it is i had to take mine outa my 3rd gen. Im just trying to figure this all out cause it might be happening sooner that originaly planned.
    1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
    1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
    1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
    1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
    1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

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    • #17
      As far as swaping everything,we exchange computers,and wireharnes,trans,pedals,hydraulics,cross member,shifters,flywheel,etc..we would have no troubles.

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      • #18
        thats everything I can think of. I'm sure there will be some little thing.
        Are you going to drop both engines? I would it will be the easiest way to get at everything. good luck let me know if you run into any suprises. I'll look for the link on droping the engine and post it next couple days. It give you a good step by step detail.
        sigpic
        1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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        • #19
          Ok i have a 96 T/a lt1..

          i got a complete swap from a guy out of CA for like 1100 bucks or something shipped..

          couple things..

          i did it in 2 days tinkering on it.. its very simple.. just some fabrication work.. and patience.

          Stock driveshaft from auto to manual will work..
          stock torque arm will work..

          really you need to just get the tranny, Clutch, PP, and Fw. shifter, 5 quarts of AT fluid, pedals, slave and master cyl for the clutch. lower boot, center console.

          the computer will have to be retuned to a M6 PCM. however you can still drive the car and everything be fine without it.. i drove around for like 3 months.. only thing is SEG light comes on and your speedometer reads about half of the actual speed. IE if your True speed is 40 mph.. the spedo will read 15-20.. i had a Garmin GPS.. lol.. insta speedo!

          you really dont need the new harness.. as all the wiring for the AT doesnt require it for the M6. some minor wiring for reverse lights and clutch saftey switch will need to be done among others.. but very minor. however if your friend wants your auto, you need to cut the big pigtail so he can wire it to his PCM pulling the whole harness is a pain.. i tried and gave up.. so i pulled it when i had the motor out

          any other questions feel free to pm me

          Edit: the reverse lockout is something people with M6 cars normally bypass anyway.. it will not throw a code or set of the SEG light, and you can have it programmed out of the system completely.. i took mine off and sealed it. for the record i have tried in the drive way just to get the car to go into Rev while rolling very slowly to test and see if it was needed.. and i will tell you.. i succeeded only once.. and it was a *****.. so if your worried about that.. i wouldnt..
          Last edited by Yoeasy69; November 18th, 2009, 12:55 PM.
          -Im Ron Burgundy?
          ----------------------------
          -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Yoeasy69 View Post
            Ok i have a 96 T/a lt1..

            i got a complete swap from a guy out of CA for like 1100 bucks or something shipped..

            couple things..

            i did it in 2 days tinkering on it.. its very simple.. just some fabrication work.. and patience.

            Stock driveshaft from auto to manual will work..
            stock torque arm will work..

            really you need to just get the tranny, Clutch, PP, and Fw. shifter, 5 quarts of AT fluid, pedals, slave and master cyl for the clutch. lower boot, center console.

            the computer will have to be retuned to a M6 PCM. however you can still drive the car and everything be fine without it.. i drove around for like 3 months.. only thing is SEG light comes on and your speedometer reads about half of the actual speed. IE if your True speed is 40 mph.. the spedo will read 15-20.. i had a Garmin GPS.. lol.. insta speedo!

            you really dont need the new harness.. as all the wiring for the AT doesnt require it for the M6. some minor wiring for reverse lights and clutch saftey switch will need to be done among others.. but very minor. however if your friend wants your auto, you need to cut the big pigtail so he can wire it to his PCM pulling the whole harness is a pain.. i tried and gave up.. so i pulled it when i had the motor out

            any other questions feel free to pm me

            Edit: the reverse lockout is something people with M6 cars normally bypass anyway.. it will not throw a code or set of the SEG light, and you can have it programmed out of the system completely.. i took mine off and sealed it. for the record i have tried in the drive way just to get the car to go into Rev while rolling very slowly to test and see if it was needed.. and i will tell you.. i succeeded only once.. and it was a *****.. so if your worried about that.. i wouldnt..
            the reason for the pcm and engine harness is because they are swapping between 2 cars t56 car gets auto auto get t56. the engine harness is very simple to change out the interior and engine BAY harnes is a lot of work. The car receiving the auto needs the engine harness and pcm. and without reverse lock out you will hit reverse going to 5th gear and grind the shit out of it. everyone eliminates the skip shift.
            Last edited by meissen; November 19th, 2009, 12:40 PM.
            sigpic
            1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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            • #21
              my 94 roller was an auto originally then i swapped everything over for my ls1 and 6-speed. If you guys need any help swapping it just let me know when and where I'd prob be willing to help out.
              -Mike
              Chevrolet Technician

              Totaled 99 SS swapped drivetrain, harness, interior, and suspension into 94 Z28.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
                the reason for the pcm and engine harness is because they are swapping between 2 cars t56 car gets auto auto get t56. the engine harness is very simple to change out the interior and engine BAY harnes is a lot of work. The car receiving the auto needs the engine harness and pcm. and without reverse lock out you will hit reverse going to 5th gear and grind the shit out of it. everyone eliminates the skip shift.
                well it helps when you read the entire thread.. not just certain ones.. problem is.. i hate reading..

                i sealed off the Cags.. not the reverse lockout. i left it in there.. running power to the reverse lockout allows the solenoid to be released allowing a easy shift into reverse. however if you do not wire it.. it stays active constantly.. making it a little tough to shift into reverse sitting in your driveway.. but like i said.. before the motor swap and parking the car for the tune and such.. i ran the car quite a few times down the backroads of Eastern Nc.. and never grinded Reverse.

                here is a really sweet walkthrough i found after i did the swap.. may be helpful.

                http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm
                -Im Ron Burgundy?
                ----------------------------
                -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

                Comment


                • #23
                  thats a good link Josh, Should help these guys a lot. swapping PCM and engine harness with trans will eliminate the codes and some of the wireing issues.
                  sigpic
                  1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Plum Nuts View Post
                    thats a good link Josh, Should help these guys a lot. swapping PCM and engine harness with trans will eliminate the codes and some of the wireing issues.

                    yeah, like i said, original post was done before i realized that the donor tranny needed the auto.. mind as well save a dollar or 100 and swap pcms.. save on a tune neway for 5 secs of heartache. lol
                    -Im Ron Burgundy?
                    ----------------------------
                    -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

                    Comment

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