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Clutch/Shifter/Synchros?

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  • Clutch/Shifter/Synchros?

    So after taking out the camaro for the first time in months, I got a nice reminder of an issue i am having with the driveline.

    Symptoms (M6/LS1):
    -Occasional grinding 1-2, 2-3 shifts, usually at higher RPM
    -Shifter feels difficult to get into gear sometimes (mostly reverse)

    Yes I know how to drive the car and that is not the issue here. It is not my first 6-speed LS1 either, so I know how it should feel. I am trying to determine if it is an issue with the clutch not disengaging properly, if it has something to do with the aftermarket B&M shifter, or if it is in need of new synchros. Can anybody help me figure this out?

  • #2
    Your probably to young to remember how to double clutch on down shift, but if you do that it would separate the clutch from the sycros. The old days you had to do that because 1st gear was usually not sycromeshed.
    sigpic
    1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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    • #3
      A good way to check for clutch disengagement. Get on completely flat ground and come to a stop. Let off the brake, put the shifter in 1st and while holding the clutch in, rev to your shift point. If the car moves AT ALL, you have a problem.

      2011 Mustang GT
      20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

      In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


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      • #4
        ^ both good suggestions.
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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        • #5
          Originally posted by my95z28 View Post
          A good way to check for clutch disengagement. Get on completely flat ground and come to a stop. Let off the brake, put the shifter in 1st and while holding the clutch in, rev to your shift point. If the car moves AT ALL, you have a problem.
          I like this idea. I'll have to try it out later today. Thanks

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          • #6
            stock or aftermarket clutch?

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            • #7
              Probably clutch...mine was doin that and not having the money to spend gettin it checked and fixed right away I just drove like that. Went for about a year and half when it totally went out (which unfortunately was last year a week b4 the M&G). By then there was a lot more damage then just replacing the clutch. Over $3000 worth of damage!
              98 Trans Am WS.6
              Cam
              Heads
              Intake
              Full exhaust
              More mods to come

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
                stock or aftermarket clutch?
                Stock clutch. If its a clutch issue i wouldnt mind as much since i'll be replacing it soon anyways.

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                • #9
                  the syncro keys in the trans are garbage from the factory so i could have something to do with that. my 3rd gear started grinding and on ocassion i would get it in 3rd and a few rpms later it would kick it out.. if you have to replace anything in your trans i recommend a place called the Gear Box its in Garden City, MI down by Canton and Wayne. But good luck man
                  2000 Trans Am Ws.6 394rwhp/408rwtq 12.24@118 MPH

                  Originally posted by c0ncEpT
                  Spray the crap out of it. Thats what I think.
                  Originally posted by MunsterZ28
                  do it so you can be

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                  • #10
                    Totally off topic but is reverse typically synchronized on todays vehicles? The only manual I ever drive on a regular basis is a '78 cj-7 with a 304 and a 3 speed and there all syncd except reverse, just wondering if that ever cought on?
                    1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

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                    • #11
                      reverse in a t56 is syncro'd for up to 5mph. its the only brass one in the case . it can be damaged very easy though

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