Looking to have a 4L80e built, and built well Not going to be a stock rebuild. Who knows their way around these? Was looking at Detroit gearbox.
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SE Michigan Trans shop recommendations?
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SE Michigan Trans shop recommendations?
-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd
WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS LoopTags: None
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Maybe . The primary motivator is the 60e is junk. It can't even hold the stock 5.3 with headers.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd
WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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The 4L60e really isn’t a bad transmission. In stock condition it doesn’t like to be abused, obviously, but it can be rebuilt much stronger.JoeliusZ28 likes this.When in doubt, Whip it out !
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Originally posted by farmington View PostThe 4L60e really isn't a bad transmission. In stock condition it doesn’t like to be abused, obviously, but it can be rebuilt much stronger.Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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All the people who go to an automatic trans in a drag race C6 Z06 go with a 4L60e trans. These are usually 9.0 carsWhen in doubt, Whip it out !
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The one I remember from years back was running a built 4L80 - but then again, it also was running high 8's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gL2su8eMEIc
That all said, it's very possible a built 4L60 can handle that - but as soon as you add another 2,000 lbs of weight - and specifically the resulting inertia, that's where it starts to break things.
For example, the Dodge Challenger actually runs a twin-disc clutch from the factory because of just how much the car weighs. You'd need a much stiffer clutch than I expect they wanted to go with from the factory. If that car was 1000 lbs lighter, a single disc would have probably been perfectly fine.Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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For probably under $100 a car they could have put the 8.5” rear in the f bodies. Damn bean counters.When in doubt, Whip it out !
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A 4L60e can likely be built to handle my application, but I think id be testing it. I plan on hot lapping this thing on the sand dunes and then towing a car hauler home on the same day. What a 60e can probably handle, the 80e will laugh at.
I fully agree that the problem with 60e's is how they are setup from the factory. Absolute junk out of the box for anything more than a sunday driver. Once built by someone knowledgeable, they're not so bad. But I also agree with Kyle, the weight of what they are pushing matters as much or more than the power level does.Last edited by JoeliusZ28; February 1st, 2021, 07:10 PM.MP81 likes this.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd
WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostAbsolute junk out of the box for anything more than a sunday driver.
The 4L60E in my '98 Suburban is over 100k, and towed our 25' travel trailer all over. I've never touched it.
The 4L60E in my '97 Express conversion van was built to tow a '30 Holiday Rambler travel trailer, and did so for many years, with trips from Illinois to Florida, and back. I now use it to tow my 20' car hauler and move cars around to Tennessee, southern Illinois, etc. Lots of weight, heat and hills. She's also well over 100k now, and still going strong.
Not saying that I don't plan a more robust rebuild for them both when they do fail, but I've had zero issues with them thus far.
DynoDave
POCI # 72200
1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
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Originally posted by DynoDave View Post
Well, that might be a little harsh.
The 4L60E in my '98 Suburban is over 100k, and towed our 25' travel trailer all over. I've never touched it.
The 4L60E in my '97 Express conversion van was built to tow a '30 Holiday Rambler travel trailer, and did so for many years, with trips from Illinois to Florida, and back. I now use it to tow my 20' car hauler and move cars around to Tennessee, southern Illinois, etc. Lots of weight, heat and hills. She's also well over 100k now, and still going strong.
Not saying that I don't plan a more robust rebuild for them both when they do fail, but I've had zero issues with them thus far.
The one in my truck is failing at 128,000 miles. it still functions fully, but the writing is on the wall. My dad bought the truck brand new and it has been meticulously maintained and driven like a grandpa its entire life. At least 5 fluid/filter changes in the records. My dad claimed he could count with his fingers the number of times he floored it in the 16 years before I bought it from him.
Ever since I bought it from my dad it has misbehaved in weird, random ways. Last winter I put longtube headers on it, and from that point on it got unhappy real fast. At this point I am 90% sure it has a cracked forward sprag or sunshell, which I believe has been hiding under the surface for years, and I just made the problem worse. That's a mechanical failure that should only happen from abuse, not casual driving. I can hear the transmission clunking from a stop like a sloppy u-joint. There are other issues, mostly with the trans being unable to hold the power of a stock, torque managed 5.3 and the shifts happening so slow and soft I can measure the time with a calendar.... why I believe all 60e's need a shift kit.
Anyway, I want to have fun with this truck. It's not going to be babied or kept stock. Just don't feel like playing around with a light duty trans.Last edited by JoeliusZ28; February 4th, 2021, 10:37 PM.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd
WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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