Whats the value of an LT1 w/forged internals???

[hgffrank]

I have been looking for parts and stuff to complete my LT1 swap in my 83 TA, and in the process I've ran across a guy who is trying to sell me his LT1 engine. I think the price is a bit high, but heres what he has.

He says its been completely rebuilt with all forged rotating assembly, bored .030 so its a 355, and it has stock heads with stainless valves and 3 angle valve job, and an aftermarket cam. I asked for more specifics, but based on what I've listed, does anything think this engine is worth $2000. The guy is claiming its got $7000 into it, but it seems to me that 7000 is alot to have in an engine considering it still has stock heads, and no porting. I am thinking this is one of those "seller trying to find a sucker" type of deals. But I could be wrong. What do you all think?

[WMCC Dino]

It's worth what ever someone will pay for it,if you don't think it's worth it than don't pay that.

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

Hey, Frank, what kind of components? How many miles? Seems a bit high but worth further investigation to see how flexible the price is...

[SlipStreamZ28]

Seeeing as you can buy a complete short block for about $4000, $7000 seems a bit high for a rebuild. But $2000 isnt a bad asking price if its what he says it is. IM betting you could knock em down to about $1600 though.

[hgffrank]

Here is what the guy emailed me today, I'm condsidering making him an offer. I have the money. So its just a matter of deciding if its worth it. Only thing that I'm concerned about is the 10.75 compression ratio, which takes Nos or FI out of the question unless I bought new pistons.

Block is .030 over and decked
complete fordged rotating ass. by Eagle (balanced)
Free floating pistons (10.75comp), H beam connecting rods
Crank has +.010 stroke on both ends and +.010 larger bearings
comp cam .538/.531 lift, 274/276 dur. 1.6 RR non self align, w/ guideplates
new hyd. lifters, oil pump
Stock heads w/ ss manly valves and 3 angle valve job, 59cc
stock intake w/ 52mm throttle body, 32lb inj.
I have receipts on all engine work done.

im selling it cause the car was wrecked. The engine is fine and was not hurt at all. I believe i only put about 3,000 miles on it if that? Then engine was never dynoed but the car was making 354 at the rear wheels. That should be good for about 425 crank.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I don't see why you couldn't run NO2 on that compression at all but boost is probably out of the question. On a side note that cam is massive.

[1fstss]

2000 is a steal! id deffinately buy that! the rotating assembly alone is close to that plus the machine work! but just so you know, nitrous loves compression... i run 10.8:1 and i spray a 300 shot. car is built to handle a 400 shot.

[hgffrank]

I sent him an email offering 1750. We'll see. The 4 hour drive each way kinda sucks, but it seems to be a pretty good engine. I'm not so sure about his claims for power, but the fact its all forged is great. Basically this is what I was wanting in the beginning.

I'd save the 400 shot till after the T56, and some other major mods are done...lol....all that power is no good if the car ends up shaped like a pretzel.

[hgffrank]

2000 is a steal! id deffinately buy that! the rotating assembly alone is close to that plus the machine work! but just so you know, nitrous loves compression... i run 10.8:1 and i spray a 300 shot. car is built to handle a 400 shot.

I've always thought you were supposed to run lower compression with nitrous? hmm....guess I didnt know crap

Are you saying your car can handle 400 shot, or the engine I'm getting could handle a 400 shot. I'd be scared to run that big of a shot. I want my engine to last a while. I dont think I'd want anymore than 500hp or so anyway. Thats more than enough power to have in a 3rd gen.