New Transmission Mount and TA Bushing!

[randall814]

install begins in less than an hour. any tips and warnings?

and to feed the need for pics in this community, feast your eyes:

[00firebird]

compare the height of your new mount to the original.. its going to be alot shorter im guessing so measure that out and make sure to space the mount back up so you're not getting trans-sag.

[97ss497]

Let me know how it goes; I've got the same to install on Tina's Z next week

[randall814]

compare the height of your new mount to the original.. its going to be alot shorter im guessing so measure that out and make sure to space the mount back up so you're not getting trans-sag.

it is my understanding the the stock one is smaller so they say to leave the removable plate that some mounts come with off so it doesnt vibrate. my mount is all one unit.

[JoeliusZ28]

how did it turn out? I think im going to switch back to my poly mount this week.

[randall814]

sorry guys, forgot to update, hah.

the install went awesome. it was pretty simple.

got the transmission mount off, and sure enough, it was ripped right in half.

the torque arm bushing was very soft from dry rotting. the polyurethane is soft to the touch until you press hard on it, it locks right up. this made it hard to get the sort of clamshell design to close around the new bushing. using the supplied grease in the prothane packaging helped.

as for the vibrations people speak of... if you buy prothane and do the transmission mount, just spend the extra 12 bucks and get the torque arm bushing done too. it will pretty much mean there are no vibrations. i can tell things are a bit stiffer and you can feel it when the car cranks to start. as for vibrations, you wouldn't notice them unless you were listening for them, and even if you were, good luck hearing or feeling it anyway.

here is a little write up for anyone wanting to give it a try.


1. jack the car up under the front nose using the frame that holds the engine in place. we found it helped to put a sheet of wood underneath each tire. this gives a extra 1/2 to full inch of extra clearance for jacking the car up without whacking the underside of the nose.

2. put 2 jackstands on either side of the jack on the same part of the frame.

3. lower the car on to the jackstands slowly. you can choose to do the same for the rear if you have 4 jackstands. we did have them, but didnt jack up the rear. you might like the extra room, but its not necessary.

4. roll the jack under the side of the car, preferably from the passenger side. put a block of wood on the jack, and then just up the transmission at the pan, taking the weight off the trans and taking the load off the mount.

4. unbolt all 4 bolts from the crossmember (16mm socket). then, unbolt the nut that holds the trans mount to the center of the cross member. take the cross member off, but be careful...sometimes there are cables for speed sensors or o2 sensors clipped onto the cross member. on my car, there was nothing clipped to it, so i threw it off to the side.

5. unbolt the two bolts holding the transmission mount to the trans. save these bolts for the new mount. you will reuse them.

6. take your new trans mount, and take one of the threaded studs that came with it, and finger tighten it into the center hole of the new mount. then, bolt it back up to the same spot on the transmission.

7. take the 3 bolts out of the torque arm mount. one it up above it (start with this one, and swing the mount down while pushing the TA up and towards the drivers side), and the two are lower on the mount. once off, take the mount and cut off the rivets that hold the stock bushings in place. the new bushings will bolt to the mount backwards from the stock pieces, do dont be alarmed if they dont seem to fit right away.

8. bolt the first piece of the TA to the trans with the two lower bolts. then, seat the TA in the first piece of the mount, then cover it in grease. put the outer piece of the mount in the little slot at the bottom of the first piece, it makes like a clamshell type thing.

9. force the mount closed over the TA and put the hole of the outer piece over the top bolt threading, and finger tighten the nut on the first few threads (because this will be very hard to hold tight).

10. tighten all three bolts down on the TA mount, and make sure they are snug. the directions recommend to tighten all bolts to manufacturer torque specs, but reef them pretty tight and there are no worries.

11. with the new trans mount bolted to the transmission, make sure you finger tightened the treaded stud into the center hole on the new mount. put your crossmember in the proper position. tighten the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember in place, 2 on each side. then, take a flat washer and locking washer form the trans mount packaging, and tighten the nut over them. reef it down nice and tight.

12. you're done. lower the car, move the shit out of your way, get in, and drive the piss out of it.

[JAdair]

WooT for 15 hp on those stickers!!!

[camarochick16]

well heres a pic of my new gm one.. dont have one comparing the two but the stock one is definately alot bigger.. how did that end up for you?
-phil

[randall814]

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_534604_-1

i have this one. it was much smaller overall, but the height was a perfect fit.

[97rs4life]

v6 trans crossmembers dip lower by about 1/2" so if anyone reading this with a 3.8 or 3.4 plan on doing a poly bushing, make sure you have some washers around in order to raise it up to the correct height again. v8 guys are fine as their cross members are straight across.

just a little F.Y.I.


V6 Manual Cross-member (rear)
V8 Auto Cross-member (front)

[97ss497]

Randy,

How did you get the bracket for the TA bushing out that's closest to the trans? The lower stud is attached to the bracket and when you try to pull the bracket out it hits the floor panel cuz the studs so damn long. It looks to me like I'll have to unbolt the driveshaft and lower the trans to be able to take the damn thing off. If I had a die grinder I could have ground off the rivets and not had to remove the bracket. I was in a hurry to take the car to the strip so I just said eff it for now and only got the trans mount installed.....

[CHMLEON]

v6 trans crossmembers dip lower by about 1/2" so if anyone reading this with a 3.8 or 3.4 plan on doing a poly bushing, make sure you have some washers around in order to raise it up to the correct height again. v8 guys are fine as their cross members are straight across.

just a little F.Y.I.


V6 Manual Cross-member (rear)
V8 Auto Cross-member (front)

Look at the pictures it appears that all the mounting holes are in the same positions. (except for the dip in the V6 crossmember). Can a person with a V6 swap out there crossmember with a V8 one?

[randall814]

Randy,

How did you get the bracket for the TA bushing out that's closest to the trans? The lower stud is attached to the bracket and when you try to pull the bracket out it hits the floor panel cuz the studs so damn long. It looks to me like I'll have to unbolt the driveshaft and lower the trans to be able to take the damn thing off. If I had a die grinder I could have ground off the rivets and not had to remove the bracket. I was in a hurry to take the car to the strip so I just said eff it for now and only got the trans mount installed.....

we put the front of the car up on jackstands, then jacked the trans up with a block of wood. to get that long ass bolt to slide out and actually fit, we lowered the jack until it was off the trans, then jacked the trans up one pump. this made it supported to take the weight off, but it also was low enough to fit the screw and bracket out.

[97rs4life]

Look at the pictures it appears that all the mounting holes are in the same positions. (except for the dip in the V6 crossmember). Can a person with a V6 swap out there crossmember with a V8 one?

yes if you go with a poly mount, get a v8 crossmember and you won't need to use spacers then for the poly mount. Otherwise spacers are needed for installing a poly mount on the v6 cars