Siphon Feed Painting Issues

[97firehawk]

If it feels gritty then you are "dusting" it on. It's not wet enough. Yeah bad call on using acetone. You need to use actual reducer. Also you should be clearing already. Base coat isn't made to dry and continue another day, you put it on until covered, let it flash then mix your clear.

Even if the base is gritty you can still clear over it, it won't effect your final look as long as it laud out even and is gritty everywhere not spotty.

. That is not exactly true .actually most base coat has a 16/18 hour window before clear coat has to be applyed
Un less you use a base coat activater and it shortens that window and each coat needs to be smooth or your final finish will suck if its gritty not good do not clear it sand it down then reapply base coat till its smooth as you can get it. A little peel fine and a few little nubs. Will polish out of clear but from what your saying that is not ok to clear it check your over lap make it 50% and keep your distance at 6/8 inches do a mediam to wet coat let flash and clear it same way then you can wet sand and polish
.. and make sure you use the rite reducer check your mixture see if it is then enuff. Read the derections for mix even if it says ready to spray it can be to thick if I'm rite this is a lacuar paint if it is you should be able to use lacuar thinner to thin it if nit is not lacuar than you can not you use lacuar thinner.

[mcalus]

Base is thin, if he puts a good 3 coats if clear on you won't notice the gritty base. The only thing different will be how the metallics laid out, sure you want it smooth but if it's gritty it won't hurt. I never said you can't leave base for long periods of time but I sure wouldn't want anything getting on the base. You have no idea who could walk by and touch it with there greasy fingers. And I don't suggest wax and grease remover on basecoat. I have seen too many lifting issues. These are just ways I do it. Each to their own. But leaving uncleared basecoat is pure stupidity.

[97firehawk]

Base is thin, if he puts a good 3 coats if clear on you won't notice the gritty base. The only thing different will be how the metallics laid out, sure you want it smooth but if it's gritty it won't hurt. I never said you can't leave base for long periods of time but I sure wouldn't want anything getting on the base. You have no idea who could walk by and touch it with there greasy fingers. And I don't suggest wax and grease remover on basecoat. I have seen too many lifting issues. These are just ways I do it. Each to their own. But leaving uncleared basecoat is pure stupidity.

Wrong again you will notice the gtittyness even on three coats if especially if its matallic it will be even worse. I agree about. People touching it and such and wax and grease I mostly fine on some base coats depends on brand and solvent sencitivity of the product. PPG its fine dupont not fine BASF fine there all different. And most of the time the only reason to leave base overnite is cus of a custom application or if your haveing a problem more clear is more material amd now you extra product and that can be a problem over time plus you will have a posable lifting issue lifting is almost always solvent related the mor solvent the better chance of lifting . All paints are different and you have different reactions per product. I've sprayed most all paint brands so id say I no somthing and you are rite we all spray. Diff and do diff things .

[mcalus]

I have seen basecoat sprayed dry. I work at a bodyshop. Just saying what I have seen and the way things come out...

[97firehawk]

I have seen basecoat sprayed dry. I work at a bodyshop. Just saying what I have seen and the way things come out...

I've done this in a rush just to get to the next car doing production its not the rite way to do it I'm a painter custom and production for the last 14 years I'm a pro dude just sayin your telling him to hack shit up not cool I'm telling him the rite way to do it I like it perfect as possible . When you do what your telling him is ok. The clear will shrink and look grany later after it drys. Even after you have wet sanded it .every step you take needs to be as smooth as possible . Don't pay attension to all of the things that some of the guys do in a rush a prodution painter dose some hacked up shit to get to the next car when your on comission time is money.

[jgardner]

Thanks again guys. So, I used acetone because that's what it said to use on the paint. I kind of figured it was gritty because I wasn't putting it on right, just wasn't sure exactly what. I've sanded it down a little using some 800, so I can go ahead with round 2 of the base (hopefully I can get it on right this time). I'll be sure to keep the 6/8 distance, and make sure I get it wet enough, and follow up with the clear right away. I also saw on powerblock that they were wetsanding the clear. My guess is with some 1500 to make sure it's super smooth. Is that right?

[97firehawk]

Thanks again guys. So, I used acetone because that's what it said to use on the paint. I kind of figured it was gritty because I wasn't putting it on right, just wasn't sure exactly what. I've sanded it down a little using some 800, so I can go ahead with round 2 of the base (hopefully I can get it on right this time). I'll be sure to keep the 6/8 distance, and make sure I get it wet enough, and follow up with the clear right away. I also saw on powerblock that they were wetsanding the clear. My guess is with some 1500 to make sure it's super smooth. Is that right?

Make sure you let the base flash off good before you clear it. And if your going to wet sand I would put 3/4 coats of Clear 1500 I fine but I will usually start a bit lower then take it up to 3000. But you don't have to you can get away with 1500 .