Update on Car

[Blue_Thunder]

Well I finally bought a timing light and checked my timing with my est still plugged in and it was 0-4 degrees depending on idle. Well hmm, that got me thinking if my timing is only going up to 4 degrees while the computer is controling it then most likely my base timing is set retarted. Thats probably why it stalled at low speeds and at stop lights before I put the superchip in. The superchip must have advanced the timing just enough so it would run. I will get back with my results after I check my base timing.

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

Well I finally bought a timing light and checked my timing with my est still plugged in and it was 0-4 degrees depending on idle. Well hmm, that got me thinking if my timing is only going up to 4 degrees while the computer is controling it then most likely my base timing is set retarted. Thats probably why it stalled at low speeds and at stop lights before I put the superchip in. The superchip must have advanced the timing just enough so it would run. I will get back with my results after I check my base timing.

Exactly.

That is the fastest way to pick up HP on your car...advance initial timing to 15 degrees and 33-35 total at 2500 rpms (be careful if you have vacuum advance).

The factory initial timing is set from 4-8 degrees so your engine will run hotter and burn off more pollutants.

If you want to have more HP, run cooler, and get better MPG, advance the timing...if you're going in for a emissions check, reset it to factory.

But, yeah, timing of zero? Something wrong there...

[WMCCjames]

You want it set at about 8-10 base with EST disconnected. This should net you about 28 degrees at idle when it's plugged back in....ah yes, love fuel injection.

[Blue_Thunder]

All right I checked my base timing and it was set at about 2-3 degrees btdc. I set it at 8-9 degrees atdc. Reconnected the est connector and checked timing. It was running at 4-6 degrees atdc. So I have know idea whats going on if its supposed to be about 28 degrees when the est is plugged in. I guess it could be the timing mark plate on the pulley may be mounted wrong. I have the trianglular indent on the pulley but I am not sure if the timing plate is right because there are white timing marks on the pulley too.

[MattODoom]

Exactly.

That is the fastest way to pick up HP on your car...advance initial timing to 15 degrees and 33-35 total at 2500 rpms (be careful if you have vacuum advance).

The factory initial timing is set from 4-8 degrees so your engine will run hotter and burn off more pollutants.

If you want to have more HP, run cooler, and get better MPG, advance the timing...if you're going in for a emissions check, reset it to factory.

But, yeah, timing of zero? Something wrong there...

If you advance your base timing on a TPI car all thats going to do is get you on the fast track to fragging your pistons. Not to mention, you will likely LOSE power as the ECM pulls ungodly amounts of knock retard out of the top end.

All right I checked my base timing and it was set at about 2-3 degrees btdc. I set it at 8-9 degrees atdc. Reconnected the est connector and checked timing. It was running at 4-6 degrees atdc. So I have know idea whats going on if its supposed to be about 28 degrees when the est is plugged in. I guess it could be the timing mark plate on the pulley may be mounted wrong. I have the trianglular indent on the pulley but I am not sure if the timing plate is right because there are white timing marks on the pulley too.

You just set your timing at 8-9 retarded, it should be 6 degrees BTDC (advanced). Don't set it at anything other then 6, six is what the ECM is programmed to know is your reference angle and it controls all the timing from there. So if you up your base to 8* you just globally added 2 degrees to all your timing table. If you need more timing down low the proper way is to edit the .bin and reburn the PROM.

[Blue_Thunder]

Oh, I had it backwards. I thought btdc was retarding the timing, so that means my timing is set right now at 8* retarded. Oops. I will fix that tomorow. That and I just discovered that I have a leaky intake valve. While I was reving my engine while checking timing all of a sudden when I reved it to about 3500-4000 rpm the car backfired. It wasn't a normal backfire through the exhaust. It backfired through the intake, I heard the bang in the intake air duct. So thats probalbly whats causing my idle to loop because one of my intake valves is nicked or a spring is bad and a valve is not closing all the way. Oh what fun this car is turning out to be!

I think it backfired through the intake because I had set the timing to about 8* retarded. I reset my timing at 8* advanced and it doesn't backfire through the intake anymore. It still runs like crap but on the plus side I don't see anymore puffs of bluish grey smoke coming from the tailpipes.

[Blue_Thunder]

[quote=MattODoom;208762]If you advance your base timing on a TPI car all thats going to do is get you on the fast track to fragging your pistons. Not to mention, you will likely LOSE power as the ECM pulls ungodly amounts of knock retard out of the top end.



I only set my timing to 8* advanced to I should be fine and I don't have a knock sensor so it won't loose power because the computer can't retard the timing.

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

If you advance your base timing on a TPI car all thats going to do is get you on the fast track to fragging your pistons. Not to mention, you will likely LOSE power as the ECM pulls ungodly amounts of knock retard out of the top end.

Haha, for some reason I was thinking carbs again...I'll just stop now...lol...