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Yeah, there's no point in wasting time putting it back together if it needs to come back apart. Plus, rushing to put it back together could lead to mistakes, which are...not ideal. -
Sadly, I was not able to get these repairs done in time for the planned May trip. But I just did not want to rush putting it back together, only to have to remove the same pieces again when I got back to complete other work. Sucks, but that's the way it is.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, I've known that stuff was under there, but since it wasn't creating a problem, I decided to leave it be (until now).Leave a comment:
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Oh look at that, you've got some upgraded 4x6s in the dash.
And I have the same kind of (disconnected, I think) switch on the bottom of my dash - no doubt related to the 37 alarms my uncle had installed throughout the car's life. I really need to remove the remnants of all of them because the wiring is just...horrific. But considering "under the dash" is a place I don't like finding myself, it's much easier just to shove it all back up and ignore it (until it falls on my feet when I'm trying to drive).Leave a comment:
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Boy, it's been a bad month for working on the car.
That JET switch was not going to work (wrong diameter), so the search for a suitable (3/8" NPT, cooler set points) switch was on. I had saved an old thread from TGO where a member was able to post the on/off set points of 5 different switches in the GP Sorenson line available at Advance Auto Parts. Sadly in the intervening years, GP Sorenson has gotten out of the switch and sensor business, and I could not find anyone with an NOS GP Sorenson switch of the part# I wanted.
Checked at NAPA, Rock, O'Reilly's, Auto Value etc. with no luck. Everyone lists just one switch part #, with it having the factory set points.
After a lot of digging through a dozen of more pages of results on the Summit site, I found this Ron Francis unit that is just shy of the right length (a touch longer, but I'm hoping it will be alright), which uses the factory style connector (no trying to cut/splice/seal a connection up inside that little pocket of space under the manifold), and comes with a replacement factory style connector. This is good insurance for me, as the factory switch broke off in the factory connector, so in case I can't get that broken piece out, this will be Plan B.
Set points: 200F on, 185F off.
With an appalling lack of focus, I dove into adding a hard wire for my radar detector. Because if I were somehow to get the car ready into for it's first trip, I'd want the radar detector.
While the pad is off, I ran through and snugged all the screws, chasing those squeaks and rattles. I'll be adding some cloth patches to the back side of the pad at contact points. Just trying to make another 2% improvement on the hundreds of rattles this car has.
Pulled the hush panel from under the dash on the driver side. Didn't know, or had forgotten, there was this hidden on/off switch for the alarm system (I guess...not attached to anything now). Might be able to use that in the future.
And while it's never caused a problem, and I like to not fix what isn't broke, I'll probably remove and seal these tap connections from the alarm while I'm in there.
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Boy, have not been able to find the shop time that I need of late.
Wasn't going to mess with it, but figured since I'm switching the thermostat for a 180*, I should go ahead and pull the temp switch for the fan. Probably a good thing....plastic end of the connector on the switch was broken off inside the connector. Another item that's a PITA to get to on this car.
Unfortunately, my plan to switch to a JET fan switch I picked up some years back is not looking so good. Switch is a different diameter. It was my understanding that this was the JET part # I needed, but perhaps I got some bad info.?
Factory switch fits nicely in this box end wrench (for reference).
The JET, not so much.
So while I'm working on some answers for that, I moved on to this old issue. Original owner had GM dealers do all his service work, so when the alternator failed, a Delco reman went in.
But when they reattached the bracket to the intake, they came up a little short, to say the least.
Got lucky...appears they hand started this (cross-threaded), and gave up. The nut backed off with no apparent damage to the threads on the nut or stud. Cleaned it, lined it up, and on it went.
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Listened to the replay of the Tigers/Yankees game while I pulled the upper rad hose, thermostat housing and thermostat. Nice and clean inside. Adding clamp photos of the original clamps as someone in the History section was asking about them.
Got the knock sensor hole cleaned up. Was going to install the new sensor tonight, but the one the parts store had was wrong. Mine should be in tomorrow.Leave a comment:
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A different heater core. It's an original I bought used, and had Superior Radiator test.Leave a comment:
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Strap acid dipped, cleaned, etch primed and painted. Way overkill for a piece that would not rot through in 3 lifetimes, or ever be seen. But I feel better.
At 37 years old, the foam seal is pretty tired. So I scraped it off and replaced it.
Back together and ready to go.
Now to drain the block. Knock sensor is looking a little aged, but the access is good. So I'm going in this way.
6-point impact socket and she came out with no drama. And the last gallon or so of old coolant with it.
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Removed the heater core from the core support plate and baffle. This spring steel strap is pretty rusty. Soaking it in some acid for a few hours to clean it up.
Cleaned out the inside of the heater box. Can't imagine anything worse at this point than to put it all back together and smell coolant, and not know if it's old stuff I missed, or a leak from the new core.
We also made it by the Pontiac Transportation Museum last night for a great presentation on GMC Coaches. I spent quite a few years working on this Pontiac Truck campus, so it was a fun look back, and I learned a lot. Several retirees from the plant were present as well.
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I wondered why I didn't have to fight with that famously hard-to-get-to 5th fastener. My predecessor took care of that fastener for me.
But with some wrestling, out she came.
Looks pretty good, actually. We'll keep it and have it repaired....for next time.
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The FSM is amazingly lacking in detail. Just do it!
Got the pipe cleaned up. A touch of surface rust under the hose, but still very solid.
Time to move inside. This panel seems to be a bit waterlogged. Pulled the foam off the panel and washed it out. Glue it back on and it will be as good as new.
UQ7 amp (and the extra wiring I added) out of the way, along with the ECM.
Remove the HVAC case cover and there she is. We have finally reached the core!
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