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'00 Convertible M6 SS #1414

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Atrus View Post
    DELETES - AIR, EGR, DRL, AUTO HEADLIGHTS


    This is a pretty boring update with no pictures, but I wanted to document what I did and what I used.

    I had a forum member who was generous enough to help me out disable EGR and AIR in the PCM via tunercat in early November before I tucked the car away for the winter.

    It took me basically two months, but I managed to get everything removed and the blockoff plates on. I used the following:

    (1) Dorman Expansion Plug - 10230 (1 3/8", Summit Racing)
    (1) Kooks EGR Block-Off Plate - 9125BO (Summit Racing)
    (2) Kooks AIR Block-Off Plates - 9126BO (Summit Racing)
    EGR and AIR Gaskets

    One thing I didn't consider is that these plates are most likely for Kooks headers - the holes were too small in diameter for the OEM bolts. I opened them up on my drill press, I believe I used a 5/16 bit. There isn't a lot of meat around the EGR bolt holes now on the outside edge, but the bolts have a flange on them and it looks like they'll seal just fine and be sturdy.

    Removing the EGR and AIR components was pretty straight forward - the only part I had a little issue with was the AIR solenoid on the back of the driver's side valve cover. I disconnected and capped the small vacuum line that runs to the rear of the manifold, and unclipped the wiring harness from the solenoid. I was trying to remove the bracket, but couldn't - there's a 10mm bolt near the valve cover, and a 15mm bolt on the rear of the head. I couldn't get to the 15mm bolt easily. It ends up that the solenoid and valve just "sit" on a tab on the bracket. Pull upwards towards the cowl and it'll come free. Sure, the bracket is still there, but it doesn't bother me much.

    I also deleted the autoheadlights and DRL's - they irritate me and come on too "early" - they are far too sensitive IMO. I can't take credit for the method - I used the detailed instructions listed on the SS#670 Modifications site. Basically, remove the module (located behind the radio on the right side of the cavity) and open the case. Solder in a wire to bridge the A and B pins on the smaller blue C2 connector.
    Hmm Ive wanted to delete my auto headlights for awhile...them coming on early doesn't bother me...but there's times when having the car running WITHOUT the headlights on to...eh...attract unwanted attention? would be nice. Absolutely beautiful car. Three thumbs up from a fellow 4th gen SS owner.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by erk2581 View Post
      Hmm Ive wanted to delete my auto headlights for awhile...them coming on early doesn't bother me...but there's times when having the car running WITHOUT the headlights on to...eh...attract unwanted attention? would be nice. Absolutely beautiful car. Three thumbs up from a fellow 4th gen SS owner.
      Thanks! Yeah, I like them to be off when I want them off as well. I disabled them in my '99 Prix when I had it too. Heck, when I get into my wife's G6, the first thing I do is turn on the fogs and turn off the DRL's. I don't even think about it, it's just habit.
      2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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      • #18
        So...I've been slacking the last two years and haven't updated this thread at all. I've wanted to use this to keep track of all the subtle changes I've done to the car. I've been keeping a list with some details offline, so I'll be working over the next few days to get this back up to date!
        2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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        • #19
          LED INTERIOR LIGHTING

          While I realize my Camaro is going on 14 years old, I wanted to keep it as modern as possible. One of the things that really bugged me about it was the color of the dash lighting – the “dirty green” just wasn’t cutting it for me, and I never liked the red odometer. It always looked out of place.
          I decided to upgrade to LEDs. I followed Sommer86’s writeup on the 6LE website to figure out which bulbs to use. I won’t get into all the trials I did, but just trust me that I worked and reworked these things several times, and spent easily 2.5x’s as much as I actually needed to…so, if you’re considering doing this, here’s a few pieces of advice that you should take at face value:
          - Warm White LEDs will give the car an aqua color backlighting. It’s not terrible, but I wanted bright clean white. Honestly, I sometimes now question whether it was worth all the extra effort to get it white!
          - You want to use Cool White LEDs if you are going for a bright white look
          - You CAN swap over all your switches, radio controls, etc
          - You CAN “clear” the blue tint from the stock cluster. You don’t have to buy the McNord cluster overlay
          - You CANNOT clear the stock headlamp/dimmer overlay. If you try, you will ruin it as the black background is painted on the back of a frosted piece of plastic – you’ll wipe the black off!
          - I felt that the OE HVAC overlay matched close enough, so I didn’t go with the McNord there either.
          - The LEDs are DAMN BRIGHT, and no, they do not dim well. I have a solution for a dimmer in the works, and it’s very doable – I don’t have an extensive electronics background. I’ll provide a separate update for it.

          So, let’s break this down:
          HVAC – Replace two bulbs per Sommer’s instructions.
          Door Switch Lights - Replace two bulbs (1 per door) per Sommer’s instructions.
          Headlight/Dimmer switch – Custom rework underway. Stay Tuned.
          Cluster – read on below…


          I opted to modify the stock gauge face. There are a couple of reasons why. 1) I didn’t want to drop the coin on a McNord unit. 2) The McNord units don’t display idiot lights as well. I have a ‘vert and want the visibility to be the best possible. 3) I think it’s kinda cool that it looks totally OE.

          I first recommend picking up a spare cluster off fleabay. Nice thing with this is you can literally leave your stock stepper motors, gauge face, odometer…the whole assembly intact. Takes the stress out of the process knowing you aren’t effing up your original. The circuit board can be unclipped from your original cluster and can be clipped onto the modified replacement cluster to retain your odometer reading. Note – make sure the cluster you purchase is compatible! I know ‘98’s were a different animal than ‘99+.

          To clear the face, disassemble the cluster. If you can’t figure out how to, you should stop right here as this is gonna be over your head. The green color comes from yellowish incandescent bulbs shining through a translucent blue filter “painted” on the back of the face. After removing the gauge needles and carefully peeling the gauge face off, you’ll need to clear the translucent paint off the back. I laid down towels and was VERY careful not to get any of the “stripping chemical” on the face. It’s important to work slowly and keep everything clean. I used “Goof Off”, but in retrospect, I don’t know that I’d recommend it. I later realized that it’s very caustic and actually etches the plastic. It does make short work of the process, however. I later picked up some “Goo Gone” (smells like oranges) and it seemed to be much less harsh. Basically, take your time and use q tips and a green scrub pad to lightly clear the stock blue (or red for Pontiac guys) film from where the text is on the face. If you want to be fancy ‘n stuff, you could even clear certain areas and leave others with the tint on there – for example, keep the speedo hash marks blue (they’d light up aqua) and clear just the numbers.

          Seems easy, right? Just rub the color off…well, the problem is the LEDs are so bright that when I was done, I saw a ton of pinhole light bleeds coming through where the black background should be. They drove me crazy. So, I almost scrapped the project. Then, I invested in some paint pens – craft stores have them. It’s not a Sharpie (I tried, the LED light will bleed through a Sharpie) – it’s a metal tube “pen” with a felt tip that dispenses paint. I got a fine point and a large point pen. I then had to trace around EVERY SINGLE LETTER/TEXT to get the light all blocked out. Color, lay it on the cluster and light the cluster up to test, color again…it sounds godawful, but it actually only took a few hours.

          I used an elmer’s tape glue thing (again, at Michaels/craft stores) to re-glue the gauge face to the clear backing.

          I also noticed that I had a dim “cold spot” on the left side of the tach (around 1000rpm) and on the right side of the speedo (at about 140mph). I noticed that on my OE cluster, the white “frame” of the cluster had a support rib there between the idiot light pods and the left turn signal. One of the two clusters I bought to experiment with didn’t have this rib. I ended up cutting it out. On the right side, the wiring for the odometer was the culprit – it was blocking the light. I ended up cutting a bit and moving the wiring and it resolved the problem.

          To obtain even lighting, I drilled a few holes around the perimeter and added in a few NEO3s. You can see them below:



          I did have some “light bleed” issues into the idiot lights. I finally figured out that it’s because of a gap that was between the rear circuit board and the white gauge cluster frame. I ended up just using some black RTV as a gasket. Worked like a charm. Light bleed looked like this:




          I also wanted to update the Odometer. I simply removed it, unsoldered the (3) red surface mount LEDs and soldered in (2) 3mm white LEDs. I followed these instructions.

          Lastly, I also added a bezel from a Firebird just to get rid of the plain “flat” look of the OE Camaro gauges.

          Here’s the end product:



          Last edited by Atrus; May 18th, 2015, 07:31 AM.
          2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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          • #20
            FRONT LIGHTING:

            In Feb/March 2013, I did a HID retrofit into factory housings. I went with the Morimoto Mini H1's off theretrofitsource.com. I got the standard 3five bulbs in 5000k. The housings were ridiculously oxidized, so I bought the Mother's headlight restore kit. I also "de-nubbed" them. They aren't perfect, but they really look very presentable. I’m satisfied for the cost that I have into them.

            I got the standard 3five bulbs in 5000k. Install was fairly straightforward - separate the lend from the housing, grind off plastic "tabs" for OE bulbs in stock housings, bolt up projectors, and reseal lens. There are plenty of threads on LS1tech and on hidplanet. I used the butyl tape - I don't think I'd do that again. I'd rather use some good quality silicone next time.

            I also ordered the $20 GM correctional splitter, and it doesn't work on our cars. I ended up just bridging the wiring under the dash to keep low beams on with the highs (this is critical in an HID install). The only issue I still have is when I hit the high beams with the fogs on, the solenoids stay on until I turn the fogs off and then back on. Not a big deal.
            I’m very happy with the results – they look great IMO, and output much better than the factory setup.

            I wanted the fogs to match the HID color. The fogs are basically useless from a function standpoint anyway, and HID’s totally negate the need for them in the fbody. I thought about getting a cheap DDM kit, but didn’t want to deal with wiring the extra ballasts and the extra failure points. I ended up ordering “880” bulb LED replacements from superbrightleds. They really don’t output anything, but they generate little heat, use little power, and match the HID’s very well.

            I also had one of my amber incandescent marker bulbs go out, so I opted to put in some LEDs there too as my connectors were getting cooked. I ended up picking them up off ebay – much cheaper than superbright. They both use 5050 SMD leds. The 194 replacements were a T10 5 LED wedge, and the 357’s were a 13 LED setup. All together, these ran me $16. The T10 had a hot spot with the LED on the top, so I painted over it. It’s now basically 4 LEDs. This also required a new electronic flasher. Again, went to ebay to keep costs down and got one that also has the ground wire for it to audibly click when the turn signal is on.

            Overall, I think these all helped to modernize the lighting on the front end fairly nicely, and it was relatively low-cost. I’ve seen folks that have separated the turn signal housings and put LED strips in there – I think I may do that down the road to further modernize it and promote better visibility.









            Last edited by Atrus; May 18th, 2015, 07:34 AM.
            2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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            • #21
              SUSPENSION

              With 70k miles on the stock Decarbons and a 4x4 stance, I decided it was time to tear into the suspension in April/May 2013. I really didn’t want to firm up the suspension a ton, and the vehicle isn’t a drag or track vehicle. As such, I was very hesitant about the aftermarket offerings as they would increase the spring rate, and some seemed more geared towards performance than aesthetics – some still appeared to have “saggy ass” where the rear looks lower than the front. After researching and considering my options, I decided to take the plunge and cut the factory springs, and run SLP Bilsteins. I didn’t want to subscribe to the “more is better” mentality and have rough-riding shocks with overly stiff springs. My mind was settled on the shocks, and I figured worst case, I mess up the OE springs and order aftermarket anyway – I am only out some time and springs I wouldn’t be using anyway, no extra money. You can read my detailed discussion on cutting springs and the progress HERE.

              One of the nuggets of information I came across was on Tech, where JasonWW described how he maintained a nice ride quality by modifying the upper spring mount and running aftermarket bump stops. This really intrigued me and seemed to make sense. By modifying the upper mount, you maintain most of the OE compression travel. Cutting the springs slightly bumps up the spring rate. Hopefully, those two sort of offset one another, and if not, the aftermarket bump stops are far more forgiving than the hard OE stops. Jason’s detailed discussion is HERE.

              Given the stock spring rate of 290ish lbs, cutting 1 coil should bump up the spring rate another 40-45 lbs, putting it at about 330-335. That’s 1LE spring territory. 1.5 coils would net approximately a 355lb spring rate. Still MUCH less than the 500+ offered in the aftermarket. Rears, it should be approximately 20lbs rate added for every coil cut.

              So, I tore into it. My car is very rust-free, however, to my dismay I found the upper mounts trashed – the shock nut, isolator, and mount were all rusted together, and I had to cut them apart. I found some replacement Moogs for relatively cheap and replaced them all.

              I bought the Ground Control bumpstops and cut approximately half an inch off them. I don’t recall exactly why I chose that amount, but I had some math and logic that with a ballpark guess led me to believe that’d be enough. I can’t stress enough how hard the OE stops are. These GC stops are exponentially more forgiving.

              I modified the upper mounts per Jason’s directions and started off cutting 1 coil off the front springs. The springs started with 10 coils, so in the pics below you’ll see 9 coils. This did net me approximately a 1” drop…it still was a little tall for my tastes.






              I then cut another half a coil and it landed right where I wanted it. I cut the rear springs to match the front – I actually don’t remember how much. I think it was approximately 1-1.25 coils.



              My rear bumpstops were shot. I had the black foam stops with the extra aluminum spacers that came stock on SS vehicles. The stops looked great, but tore off their mounts. I opted to use the black Energy Suspension poly stops made for Jeeps. I ditched the aluminum spacers and used a die grinder to clearance the energy units instead of modifying the mount on the car. I am sure they are ridiculously hard, but from what I can tell I haven’t hit them yet. That’s saying something for the shock/spring setup considering MI’s terrible roads. It’s more of a safety net for me, hopefully I never hit them. If I do, I’ll consider drilling some relief holes to provide a little more “give” in them.

              It's important you follow JasonWW's directions in the Mount Mod link and CUT THE END OF THE SHOCK SHORTER if you're going to mod the mount. I was reluctant to do so, figured I'd give it a try without, and if I heard noise I would cut it. Passenger side is fine, but it must have contacted the body on the driver's side as it slightly bent the threaded portion of the shock. Luckily, the shock itself seemed to be fine. Needless to say, mine are about 1/2" shorter now.
              I also added in a set of low-mileage UMI 3-point bolt-in SFC’s that I picked up from Conrad. I needed some new front sway bar end links, which I picked up stock units from O-Reilly. Overall, these modifications have really improved the ride. It’s not overly harsh, and it feels MUCH more smooth than with the Decarbons. I really think one would be hard pressed to make the car ride nicer than it does right now as a cruiser.

              I did have one “clunk” that was absolutely driving me nuts. I was hearing it on larger sharp bumps. After many months of trying to chase this down, I finally found it in June of 2014 – it ends up that the replacement sway bar end links were too long and the sway bar was contacting the frame. Most others don’t have this problem as it was contacting an extra brace present in the convertibles. Link to the discussion and pictures is HERE.


              In the end, the car rides great and looks great. I am happy with the results!

              BEFORE:




              AFTER:


              Last edited by Atrus; May 18th, 2015, 07:46 AM.
              2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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              • #22
                SPRING MAINTENANCE/CLEANUP

                Yeah, another boring one, but wanted to document it. Starting in April 2013, I opted to perform all the necessary routine maintenance functions on the car. Being that I got the car in late June 2012, I basically just changed the oil and drove it until I parked it in Nov '12. I decided it was time to really inspect everything and make sure it was all fresh. So, I completed the following:

                - Changed engine oil
                - Changed trans fluid
                - Changed diff oil
                - Flushed clutch hydraulics (used a Motive powerbleeder)
                - Flushed brake hydraulics (used a Motive powerbleeder)
                - Flushed power steering fluid
                - Changed spark plugs
                - Changed PCV
                - Changed Water Pump & hoses (saw a few drips on the floor last season and it appeared to be weeping. Better safe than sorry!)
                - As a result of the water pump, refilled the majority of the cooling system with fresh coolant. Didn't flush as it didn't seem too grody. Will probably drain and refill radiator periodically.
                - New Brakemotive plated/slotted rotors and pads.
                - Cleaned K7N and installed the SLP lid I picked up from Conrad.

                I also decided to complete a few cleanup/visual upgrades as well:

                - Painted calipers black with duplicolor caliper kit. Really liked the kit, but as people mentioned - the included brush was terrible.
                - Brent Franker pewter colored "CAMARO" vinyl decals went on the front calipers
                - Brent Franker black bowtie vinyl decals went on the wheel centercaps - the stock red was completely faded away and couldn't be seen.
                - Redid the carpet area in the trunk - it was crap looking black feltish material previously. May not be a major improvement, but the other material really bugged me.

                Trunk went from this:





                To this:




                Brake Caliper & Centercap:
                Last edited by Atrus; May 18th, 2015, 07:50 AM.
                2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                • #23
                  POWER STEERING COOLER

                  While planning for maintenance in 2013, I noticed the “odd” metal thing in the upper radiator hose. I hit the old interwebs and discovered that it’s actually the power steering “cooler” – actually, it’s more like a heat exchanger between the engine cooling system and the power steering system. I also learned that these things liked to leak, which allows coolant into the steering system and PS fluid into the cooling system. So, I decided it needed to go.

                  Research lead me to some folks using a 24” frame-mount Derale cooler mounted under the radiator support. I liked the concept, however, I didn’t want it mounted under the support as the car is already ridiculously low. Yes, I’d have bigger problems if I actually hit the radiator support on something, however, if I rupture that cooler I wouldn’t be able to drive the car.

                  I, therefore, opted to go with the Derale 13200 – this is a smaller 10” model that fit nicely under the passenger side fan. I drilled two 1/8” holes in the radiator shroud and used the ties that came with the cooler. The line fit really tightly on the reservoir, and it’s a little loose on the cooler, but as this is the low pressure side of the system I felt it was OK. I haven’t had any issues with it. Not sure if it’s any better than just not running a cooler at all, but I feel much better about running this vs the OE engine cooling hose exchanger.

                  Last edited by Atrus; May 18th, 2015, 07:51 AM.
                  2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                  • #24
                    CLUTCH

                    Shortly after I completed my spring cleanup, in May 2013, I was driving home from work on M53 North. I came upon some traffic and put the car into Neutral. When I was ready to move again, the clutch pedal went to the floor and wouldn’t return. I couldn’t get the car into gear. I was in a construction zone…with no clutch…in rush hour. It was loads of fun.
                    I was in the left lane and somehow got it into gear and made it over to the right shoulder, and managed to limp it 3 miles to the next exit. In retrospect, I should have known this was coming. The first season I had it – 2012 – I was experiencing the high RPM lockouts at times. It just wouldn’t go into gear. Additionally, as soon as I had done the spring cleanup, I was out with a buddy cruising around one night and the car didn’t feel “right” – I ground the gears a few times. I promised him I knew how to drive a stick. Whether the fresh fluid from my spring maintenance did it, or the powerbleeder (most likely the culprit), or it was a coincidence, I’ll never know.

                    I got the car home later that night and decided with approximately 70k on the odometer it’d be in my best interest just to replace the entire system. I also weighed out my options against aftermarket, the LS1 replacement (really, an LS6 unit), or a LS7 unit. I finally decided on the LS7. The car’s a cruiser, and I wanted something that was comfortable to drive, that grabbed well, and that was pretty much guaranteed to have longevity. Being that I have no plans to make huge power, the LS7 seemed to fit the bill. I picked one up for a good price through an employee purchase program. I also picked up a new CMC and slave. Both came from Autozone. The CMC is just a random Autozone part, but the slave is branded “AP” and was made in Mexico – research shows that this is the same slave you’d get from GM, just significantly cheaper. I also opted to install the Tick remote bleeder, and I am damn glad I did!
                    I got it up on my old man’s truck stands on the front, and used some 2x10’s to raise my smaller stands up to the proper height on the rear:

                    Ready to go – let’s get this thing out:





                    Here’s what the condition of the OE clutch assembly was…although it was the hydraulics that went, it was time to replace it!







                    And after a few hours of work, I managed to get the trans out. Car wasn’t high enough to slip it out from under the car (it was on a trans jack), but I was able to slide it back to the rear axle to clear a working space.



                    So, I won’t go into excruciating detail, but here are a few observations/experiences I had:
                    - Separating the trans from the bellhousing was a total PITA. Took me a while and a lot of prying, but I got it done.
                    - Similarly, reinstalling the trans was a major PITA. I did end up using the trans-to-bellhousing bolts to pull it back together, even though you’re not supposed to. I also did clean up and put anti-seize on the dowel pins.
                    - Removing the CMC is a major pain. Reinstalling it is easily 4x’s worse. I battled that thing for hours for the reinstall and my forearms looked like I got into a fight with a dozen cats. I got pissed off, walked away for 30 mins, and when I came back it miraculously just fit right in there. Anyone who has ever claimed beer doesn’t solve problems was proven wrong.
                    - The actual clutch alignment and install went rather smoothly, other than my shit torque wrench….

                    …because I managed to snap a flywheel bolt off in the crank. Great. So, I tried to use a bolt extractor, which was working great….until it snapped off. I was being really careful, but I probably should have used 1 size bigger. So, I managed somehow to drill out the broken extractor, and I went to use a larger size. All went well and the bolt came right out…but my dumbass didn’t realize that the flywheel bolt hole is a through hole on the crank and that mounting point at the end is a larger OD than what goes through the seal. Yeah, I drilled too deep and ended up with a 1/8” hole in my block. I saw small teeth in the hole and freaked out – luckily, I just nicked one of the bolts holding the endcap on, and I was seeing bolt threads. I tapped the hole I drilled and put in a small set screw with red locktite on it. Hopefully I don’t have any issues in the future. I think I am OK now.
                    My fix – I put this in before I realized they were just cap bolt threads I was seeing. I could have just as easily left it as-is.

                    Hole in block:



                    Set Screw in Place:



                    My nifty flywheel “holder”:



                    I bled the thing like mad, and I couldn’t get the trans to disengage up on jack stands. I bled the hell out of it again, and it seemed like it worked. I drove it one day and by the end of that day I couldn’t get it into gears easily again. Bled again…and again…and again. I was mostly using the Powerbleeder. Finally, the CMC just wasn’t feeling “right” – I returned it and got a replacement. Bled again, traditionally this time. And again…and it was “kinda” OK, but still didn’t feel right. I made one last crack at it, and used the Tick remote speedbleeder as a traditional bleeder – pump pedal, hold to floor, crack it, tighten it, and let the pedal up. Repeat. Repeat….after about 6 times of doing this, the pedal felt GREAT. It’s been smooth sailing since.

                    I really like the LS7. No high speed lock out, grabbier than my old worn out LS1 setup, and feels smooth and factory.
                    Last edited by Atrus; May 18th, 2015, 07:54 AM.
                    2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                    • #25
                      ST IGNACE 2013

                      Just had to include these pics...my "uncle-in-law" is fairly tight with some of the event organizers for the St Ignace show. He typically hosts a BBQ at his place after the show. We've met Linda Vaughn a few times, but she also brought along a friend in 2013.

                      That's me on the left of Linda:



                      And here's her friend Courtney with the SS:



                      2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                      • #26
                        Whew - I am actually almost up to date! Couple more updates and I'll be current.
                        2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                        • #27
                          JVC HEADUNIT

                          I decided that the 1.5DIN Pioneer that came with the vehicle had to go. It’s a nice HU, but it’s outdated. I ended up choosing a JVC NSX-700. It’s got Bluetooth, Android integration, steering wheel controls. I picked up the PAC SWI-RC to enable my stock steering wheel buttons to work. I also picked up a spare radio bezel off ebay and sent it off to DD Mods to have it modded to fit the double din JVC. I kept my stock bezel unmodified.


                          Installation was fairly straightforward…I did have to trim the dash a bit to get the JVC to fit (behind the bezel, you can’t see it), and it certainly is a tight fit. I couldn’t get the DD Mods brackets to work, so I ended up fabbing my own. The PAC unit was straightforward to install using the instructions.


                          Overall, the radio is a nice upgrade, but I am not 100% thrilled with it. I had envisioned replicating my Android phone on the screen and having full usage, but it’s not quite that seamless. I’d like to have Google Maps, Amazon Music, SiriusXM (via the internet app), Pandora, Torque, and anything else I’d like to use at my disposal. I did install hacked software on the phone to give more functionality - the app list is very limited otherwise, to prevent distracted driving. I plan to mess with it some more to see if I can get Tasker to better integrate the phone, but ultimately, I have a plan in mind to better leverage the pure Android technology in the vehicle. For the time being, I do think this HU was a nice upgrade over the dated Pioneer and it’ll hold me over for a while. It definitely modernizes the interior, and the bluetooth is really handy when I am out rowin' gears.





                          2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                          • #28
                            WINDOW MOTORS & XPRESS DOWN


                            My driver’s side window motor was going – the window would stop while rolling it up. I thought it was a little interesting, being that usually the passenger motor is the one that goes. I figured the passenger one had already been replaced, but when I tore into it, both seemed to be the original motors.


                            Anyway, I ordered Dorman motors off Amazon. Installation was fairly straightforward using the shbox instructions. The pictures of the rivet locations were extremely helpful. I did opt to pick up some hex cap (allen head) bolts from the hardware store to facilitate an easier installation. It was easier than a phillips screwdriver to get the bolts in through the holes drilled in the door panel. Both motors work great now!


                            I also wanted to wire in the express down feature on the passenger window. A couple years back, I purchased a complete stock interior wiring harness and a stock express down module from a MiFbody member. It’s proven incredibly useful as I am able to harvest OE connectors and wiring.
                            Anyway, I followed the instructions on bfranker’s website, but I really didn’t want to cut into the stock wiring. I ended up creating a small harness using stock connectors and wiring off the extra OE harness that I had. This harness plugs into the OE wiring, and the OE switch plugs into it - it "splices" in my modified wiring in between the OE switch and door harness without having to cut anything.

                            I had to de-pin the window switch connector and flip the wires around. I also had to use a lock switch connector, which is the same pattern but uses smaller gauge wiring, and retrofit it with thicker OE window wiring from the extra harness. On that connector, I needed some copper male leads (the OE harness is female), so I ended up picking up some copper roofing nails and trimming them down. I trimmed up the heads so they wouldn’t touch, and I pushed the nails through the female holes in the OE connector. I then ran the wiring through the door and rubber boot, and tucked the module down into the passenger footwell – there’s a spot where it fits perfectly.


                            Unfortunately, I don’t have a lot of pics of the harness, but it really was straightforward. The express down feature works just as well as the driver’s side.


                            Here’s where I located the module – you can see it looping around the plastic/rubber piece. It’s totally hidden by the rocker molding once that was reinstalled:



                            I also noticed this sticker on the carpet. 7-Sept-99. I thought that was pretty cool, as it was within the very first days of my freshman year of college. That's one of the things I like about this car...it's a car from my youth - the 4th gens were really cool when I was in High School...the LS1 was new and pretty much the hottest thing on the street!

                            Last edited by Atrus; October 6th, 2015, 09:07 AM.
                            2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

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                            • #29
                              SOUND INSULATION

                              In my quest to modernize and refine my SS, I decided that while I had the window motors out, I would install some sound insulation. I had read that a lot of road noise comes from the doors. I walked in with reasonable expectations…the car is a rattle-prone F-Body convertible. In no way, shape, or form will this thing be a vault. I get a lot of road noise, and the car just feels “empty” and not solid to me. With the top up, I really get a ton of road noise – I assumed it’s coming from the doors and trunk.

                              After I read…and read…and read some more, I concluded that I really wanted to use some good CLD tiles. I’ve read the conflicting reports on using home depot/lowes roofing material, etc. When it came down to it, I felt the extra expense was worth it when I took into account how messy removal of an inferior product could be. I certainly didn’t want to be scraping tar off my panels. I also didn’t want to deal with it melting, falling off, etc. I wanted to crack open the doors once…replace the window motors, complete the sound insulation, and hopefully never take the panels off again.
                              So, I followed Don Sambrook’s advice on the SoundDeadenerShowdown site. I ordered 40 of his CLD tiles and the maple roller (these all fit into one flat rate box). Total cost was $110 shipped. I really wanted to use his Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl, but it was just too pricey for me. He does send samples of all these items with his tiles, and I readily admit they both seem like nice products – superior to what I used, but also much more costly. Again, I had to do a cost/benefit, and because the CCF and MLV are easily removed and would have been ridiculously expensive, I found local alternatives.

                              For CCF, I used 1/8” Polyethylene foam from The Foam Factory – they are located at 23 mile and Romeo Plank. It comes 60” wide and is priced well. As mentioned the CCF that Don sells is much nicer, but this seemed like it’d do.

                              For MLV, typical product used is 1lb/sq ft. I found something at Home Depot – DB-3…it’s gotten decent reviews, it’s cheap, and it ships for free if you order 2 rolls. It’s .75lb/sq ft. Again, I am in a ‘vert – I figured it’s got to help, and no matter what I won’t have vault-like silence.
                              So, I ended up cutting up the CLD tiles and throwing them in the doors….100% coverage isn’t necessary. I applied enough until I could tap on the outside of the panel and it sounded solid. I then cut a solid piece of both the CCF and the MLV and placed them over the door, secured in with a few hex flange head self tapping sheet metal screws. The door panels were a little cumbersome to get reinstalled, but with some trimming, a few beers, and some choice words, I got it done.

                              I added CLD tiles behind the quarter panel trim, on the wheelwells, and throughout the trunk – again, not at 100% coverage. Behind the quarter panel trim, I only installed the CCF…the MLV seemed like it’d be a pain to get to fit, and I figured I could always go back with it. In the trunk I completely layered the CCF and MLV over the entire parcel shelf, frame rails, trunk well, and rear wall.
                              I need to add in the CCF and MLV on the sides (quarter panels) in the trunk. I also would have to pull the carpet to do the floor of the passenger cabin and behind the rear seatback – I do plan on doing this.

                              Ultimately, the doors shut much more solidly (still not like a luxury car “thump”, but much better than stock). Road noise has significantly decreased with the top up. I still get some, but I am sure getting the sides of the trunk done, behind the rear seatback, and the floor of the passenger cabin will help a lot. Previously, I was very aware of the irritating road noise…if I was out on a cruise with the family, I couldn’t hear my daughter in the rear seat. Now, I still hear road noise, but it is significantly reduced. I really look forward to completing the install. At the end of the day, I feel the couple hundred bucks was worth it…the car isn’t silent, but it’s much more pleasant. In my quest to modernize and refine my SS, I decided that while I had the window motors out, I would install some sound insulation. I had read that a lot of road noise comes from the doors. I walked in with reasonable expectations…the car is a rattle-prone F-Body convertible. In no way, shape, or form will this thing be a vault. I get a lot of road noise, and the car just feels “empty” and not solid to me. With the top up, I really get a ton of road noise – I assumed it’s coming from the doors and trunk.

                              After I read…and read…and read some more, I concluded that I really wanted to use some good CLD tiles. I’ve read the conflicting reports on using home depot/lowes roofing material, etc. When it came down to it, I felt the extra expense was worth it when I took into account how messy removal of an inferior product could be. I certainly didn’t want to be scraping tar off my panels. I also didn’t want to deal with it melting, falling off, etc. I wanted to crack open the doors once…replace the window motors, complete the sound insulation, and hopefully never take the panels off again.
                              So, I followed Don Sambrook’s advice on the SoundDeadenerShowdown site. I ordered 40 of his CLD tiles and the maple roller (these all fit into one flat rate box). Total cost was $110 shipped. I really wanted to use his Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl, but it was just too pricey for me. He does send samples of all these items with his tiles, and I readily admit they both seem like nice products – superior to what I used, but also much more costly. Again, I had to do a cost/benefit, and because the CCF and MLV are easily removed and would have been ridiculously expensive, I found local alternatives.

                              For CCF, I used 1/8” Polyethylene foam from The Foam Factory – they are located at 23 mile and Romeo Plank. It comes 60” wide and is priced well. As mentioned the CCF that Don sells is much nicer, but this seemed like it’d do.

                              For MLV, typical product used is 1lb/sq ft. I found something at Home Depot – DB-3…it’s gotten decent reviews, it’s cheap, and it ships for free if you order 2 rolls. It’s .75lb/sq ft. Again, I am in a ‘vert – I figured it’s got to help, and no matter what I won’t have vault-like silence.
                              So, I ended up cutting up the CLD tiles and throwing them in the doors….100% coverage isn’t necessary. I applied enough until I could tap on the outside of the panel and it sounded solid. I then cut a solid piece of both the CCF and the MLV and placed them over the door, secured in with a few hex flange head self tapping sheet metal screws. The door panels were a little cumbersome to get reinstalled, but with some trimming, a few beers, and some choice words, I got it done.

                              I added CLD tiles behind the quarter panel trim, on the wheelwells, and throughout the trunk – again, not at 100% coverage. Behind the quarter panel trim, I only installed the CCF…the MLV seemed like it’d be a pain to get to fit, and I figured I could always go back with it. In the trunk I completely layered the CCF and MLV over the entire parcel shelf, frame rails, trunk well, and rear wall.

                              I need to add in the CCF and MLV on the sides (quarter panels) in the trunk. I also would have to pull the carpet to do the floor of the passenger cabin and behind the rear seatback – I do plan on doing this in the future.

                              Ultimately, the doors shut much more solidly (still not like a luxury car “thump”, but much better than stock). Road noise has significantly decreased with the top up. I still get some, but I am sure getting the sides of the trunk done, behind the rear seatback, and the floor of the passenger cabin will help a lot. Previously, I was very aware of the irritating road noise…if I was out on a cruise with the family, I couldn’t hear my daughter in the rear seat. Now, I still hear road noise, but it is significantly reduced. I really look forward to completing the install. At the end of the day, I feel the couple hundred bucks was worth it…the car isn’t silent, but it’s much more pleasant.

                              Unfortunately, I was too focused when doing the trunk and didn't snap any pics. Here's the driver's door.

                              2000 SS Convertible #1414 - Light Pewter 6 Speed

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Wow. That looks nice man! Funny thing, I've been thinking about a head unit swap too. My driver window motor is going too But I'll probably be doing manual windows.
                                sigpic
                                1997 Camaro Z28 M6 with stuff done to it.

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